stencel making, how do you make a good one?
28 replies to this topic
Posted 19 January 2007 - 02:29 PM
I like blank clear stencil material, such as found in the craft stores or in craft sections of wal-mart, etc. I cut it with a stencil cutter--same as a wood burner with different tips. Draw your design on the stencil and place it on a sheet of glass. Make each cut without removing your tip until finished. use small metal objects, or templates for guides for making smooth lines and curves. Yes it takes some practice, but I have stencils I've been using for over 3 years with no end in sight, using water-base paints. They clean with a damp rag wipe and are ready for the next lure, or the opposite side of that lure. I hold mine with clips in front of the lure usually not touching the lure for soft edges. For harder edges I'll increase paint flow and hold closer, or directly on lure, often with a gloved hand. Because these stencils are transparent they allow easy exact placement on the lure, which I consider a big advantage. You can also tape-off portions for different or different-sized lures, or just to modify the design.
Posted 19 January 2007 - 04:14 PM
The links below are my solution to hands free operation.
It has not een built, but I made a cardboard version and it worked fine.
The stensils 'snap' into place past the pegs and lift out from the front or back with ease. The stensil is held quite firmly using acetate sheet and it will work with any material that tends to spring back to flat.
I think the pictures are clear enough for construction, but if anyone wants more info, I am prepard to draw it up with instructions.
There are lots of possibilities for improvement. Many more ideas could be incorporated, but I decided to keep it simple for discussion purposes.
Posted 19 January 2007 - 04:40 PM
Should work good! This could possibly present a problem, air from the airbrush going under the stencil were the is a force fit (stop pins) and being lifted from the frame.
Posted 19 January 2007 - 04:44 PM
The back of the pins could be notched at the base, or replaced with a rail, chamfered at the base. That should hold it.
Posted 19 January 2007 - 04:51 PM
Or set in at a angle either should eliminate that problem.
Posted 19 January 2007 - 06:39 PM
Anyone actually using this type of frame? I'm curious as to how well the curved angle fits up against the lure.
Posted 14 March 2007 - 12:31 PM
I have used the method Dean mentions. Using the craft store stencil material. I've wrapped it around a lure then heated it with quick passes of a torch. It formed to the shape of the lure. I trimmed the stencil after and left a bit where the plastic meets to attach a paper clip to hold the template in place. Worked pretty good.
Posted 14 March 2007 - 01:44 PM
I use airbrush frisket material, an adhesive plastic film with a peel-off paper backing. But I never remove the backing since I want to keep the stencils for re-use. I trace an outline of the bait, then freehand the cutouts with a pencil and cut them out with an xacto. If I want a left/right stencil pair, I trace a mirror image of the side finished first on another piece of frisket and cut it out the same. It only takes 30 mins for the whole process for most patterns. A L/R stencil pair lets me shoot paint without worrying about getting wet paint smeared on the other side. The stencils are pliable enough that I can hold them down with a finger tip while air from the airbrush keeps them pressed down on the surface of the lure. I do that rather than trying to get a stencil stretched out in place and secured on a curved surface containing a fresh coat of tender acrylic paint - which so far has NOT worked for me..
Posted 15 March 2007 - 09:52 AM
For patterns I can't freehand, purchased Mold Builder (liquid latex) from Hobby Lobby. Brush several (5-6) light coats on a bait body allowing each coating to cure properly. You can coat the entire length of the bait or just a portion, depending on the pattern. Once cured, use a fine tip pen to draw the pattern and use a single-edged razor or exacto-knife to cut the pattern (while the latex 'sleeve' is still on the bait body). Now you need to cut the 'sleeve' off the bait. Use a razor or knife and slice the sleeve the entire length along the bottom or top depending on the pattern.Now you have a reusable, snug, form fitting sleeve pattern that is specific to that type of bait body. Made from latex, it is soft and won't scratch or otherwise mess up any underlying paint. Slip a bait into the sleeve and use tiny rubber bands (from orthodontist offices) to hold in place or slip nooses made from mono or braid. Press down around the pattern to insure crisp clean lines. For fuzzy lines, a little more modification is needed on the sleeve. Flip the pattern sleeve inside out and use the head of a nail (in a dabbing motion) to apply more Mold Builder along the pattern edges creating an uneven texture that allows for small air gaps during the painting process. Some experimenting may be necessary.Spray the bait. Allow to dry, naturally or with hot air. Undo the rubber bands and remove the sleeve. Done.Downside? You need a separate sleeve for each different body style and might be a pain for doing mass production. But it does make a reuseable dependable pattern template. And it can be cleaned easily with water if needed.