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epoxy finish on hinged baits
37 replies to this topic
Posted 07 July 2007 - 05:27 AM
Good solution Riverman. I particularly like the fact that it can be dismantled.
Posted 07 July 2007 - 08:12 AM
Nice hinge Jed! I see a lot of advantages to that set-up, not the least of which is strength.
Posted 07 July 2007 - 03:58 PM
There is probably a better way. Since I am building musky lures I tend to over-build things and this is a good example. It definitely won't ever break. The one down side of it is that you have to use alot of screws which makes it a bit tricky to add in the screw eyes for the hook holders....they collide with the other screws so they must be installed a bit off-center.
I forgot to mention, you should drill the area where each of the screws will go to allow for clearance on the screw eye heads as they swivel. I use about a 1/4-3/8" forstner bit to do this. Twist the screw eyes in as far as possible while still allowing free movement of the pin to reduce the gap between the two sections.
I experimented some with the screw eyes on one side and then held in place with a vertical pin running down through the joint and into each eye on the other. Many commerical jointed lures are built in this manner. This works too but when I gave it a good pull and twist the wood cracked which ended my confidence in this approach. Solid plastic probably wouldn't crack like the wood which is probably why commercially built lures in this manner hold up.
If someone can think of a way to improve this set-up please let me know...I would be very interested!!!
Posted 08 July 2007 - 11:19 AM
I thought about trying a hinge pin on my bass baits but it tended to increase the gap between segments. So far, the hand twisted ss screws built one inside the other have worked OK. You can make the screw eyes very small if you want a small gap (use wire bending pliers!), or you can even recess the screw eyes into the bait if you want it REALLY tight, so the segments click together when retrieved. I clean epoxy out of the hinge with a piece of ss wire chucked in a Dremel. It works very well but you need to be careful not to drill through the clearcoat and expose raw wood to water absorption. I don't know if it's important (bass seldom talk to me directly!), but I like to cut the segments at a slight back angle so a following fish doesn't see the gap or the hardware in the hinge.
Posted 08 July 2007 - 03:56 PM
I have been using cotter pins interlocked together. If you want to be able to assemble and dissasemble with ease prior to final glue up, all you have to do is spread the cotter pin open, squeeze together, and instert it in the hole. It will create a spring effect and the cotter pin will grip the inside wall of the hole. That way you can paint the bait with it together, take it apart to clear coat each segment, and when cured complete the final assembly. You can just insert a screw eye or whatever in one of the holes to hold it while turning. If you don't get too much epoxy on the screw eyes, they will screw out pretty easily after the epoxy has cured. Anyway, this is what I have found to work pretty good in my limited experience. Also another tip I have learned, is if you use two pins for each joint (total of 4, two pairs per joint) cut one just a tad shorter than the other and it will be easier to insert them at the same time. Works for me.
Posted 08 July 2007 - 10:35 PM
Dean, did you edit that post? I just reread the entire thing from start to finish, and do not remember that post in the original flow of discussion. I seriously doubt you need any advice on ways to joint a bait with sevenstrand, but if so pm me.
Posted 08 July 2007 - 11:14 PM
here's a picture of the hinge system i am using and an in progress swimbait. the hinge plate is aluminum and the wire is .40 s.s. i do all the finish work and topcoat before epoxying the hinge into the body sections. pretty strong, i can't pull it apart and this way i can avoid getting anything in the hinge to foul it up.
Posted 08 July 2007 - 11:26 PM
I've twisted 7 strand and fixed it like solid wire, you must twist it in the same direction as the strand twist or it will unravel.
Also, the loop must be kept small as the first heavy load will set the loop in an elongated shape. The small loops make for a very tidy joint.
As for durability of a straight through 7 strand hinge, no one has given any feedback for or against.
Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:03 AM
jrhopkins, is that just an aluminum piece that is bent around the ss wire? It is hard to tell from the pictures. Btw, your baits look great, can you show a video of how they swim?
Posted 09 July 2007 - 12:20 AM
yeh, i got an old broiler pan at the goodwill store that was aluminum,got enough to make a hundred hinges for $1. i made a drawing of the hinge but couldn't upload it in the reply for some reason. will try to figure it out and post it. have no way to video them at the present. might have to get a camcorder instead of the new rod and reel i was looking at and invest in one.
Posted 09 July 2007 - 08:18 AM
I just wanted to physically see the results of this type of joint, which would tell me whether I'd want to pursue a design of this type. How it looks in the final product will show not just me but everyone not only the cleanliness of the design, which is tantamount in a jointed lure, but would likely show its strengths or potential weaknesses and easily the build might be accomplished.
I'm just saying, don't post that you have a solution to a problem, and stop short, saying the rest of it is a secret, I think everyone would agree that that's just bad board ettiquette. The logical next step to your post is a picture that says "Here Vodkaman, like this", just as rj and riverman did. Otherwise, why post at all if you're simply going to say "I have the answer, but I'm not going to tell anyone, but it does involve this one component", and then not even post a pic showing, if nothing else, the end result. That's just bad forum form.
Posted 09 July 2007 - 11:35 AM
jr,I can see where you could get a very narrow gap with that, and should be plenty strong also. Nice!
Posted 09 July 2007 - 11:54 AM
iv'e tried to pull it apart and can't. i use only the 2 ton epoxy for the hinge assembly. with this method i can adjust the segment gap to allow for a wide tail action. also the v-cut in the bait results in the bait making a clicking sound on the retreive when the sections flex.
Posted 09 July 2007 - 09:26 PM
Sorry if that is bad forum form, but if it were easier for me to post pictures, you'd probably see more than the few that have been posted by me. Anyway I could explain it in words, and already have to a few...
Posted 10 July 2007 - 02:59 PM
I just wanted to see some pictures of your baits where you'd made the Sevenstrand work for you in a jointed lure. I just can't see how you'd make it work without a giant fatigue factor if you were depending upon the flex in the single strands and no joint (kinks?), or if you were joining them with interlocking loops, how that would look. A picture's worth a thousand words here. You are the one who brought up the method, but refused to be specific. And the "difficulty in taking pictures" excuse is pretty lame; I can see you uploaded a pic for your avatar. Or if what you're saying is just theory, then state it as such, but of course you said you hadn't noticed any fatigue in your joining technique...jeez, just post your lures and show us!
Posted 10 July 2007 - 03:21 PM
I'd be interested in seeing that type joint too.I can't invision how you could make that joint work without material fatigue,and then joint failure..Nathan
Posted 12 July 2007 - 08:55 PM
It's not just theory, but like I said it would be next to impossible for me to post a pic right now. Dean and Nathan, check pm.