fatfingers

Quick Tips...take em all, but leave one of your own!

147 posts in this topic

Im new to this.....but this tip goes for any wood working. Clean the grease off of your vice when you have previously used it to work on car parts. The oils get into your wood and can penetrate so deep that it stops the sealers and epoxies from sticking.

ALso.....I learned this one just yesterday. make sure you wear something on your feet when working with sharp tools..............ouch.....

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hey I dont know if any you guys have tried this, but try putting auto paste wax and polish your needles and tips on your air brush. Paint has a hard time sticking to it and cleaning is a lot easier.

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Jamie- great idea, but watch out for silicone based polishes, you may finish up with birds eyes all over your finish coat. pete

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Hey hazmail I have another one for you. When your painting your baits a flexable lure stand would free up your hands. To make this use a flex line , the one I use is the kind you use for the supply line for gas heated water tanks. Then I bolted one end to a base and epoxy a bolt in the other end . You can either bolt a small spring clamp to the top or make rack shaped like this |___| and bolt it to the the top.In the rack you suspend the bait between the two ends , I use wire used to hang drop ceiling. You can also keep the bait in the racks, clearcoat them and bolt them to your dryier. I have these rack made for each lure.

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Mark still trying to figure out how to post a picture. I have another one for you. Sanding edges after rounding them over use a bow sander rig. To make this rig take a a piece of wood and cut out a handle, shaped like this |_____|. Then take a belt sander belt and cut some strips a few inches longer than your handle. Use a bolt washer and wingnut and drill a hole through the handle at both ends of the handle and lap over your sand paper and run the bolt through it. The sand paper will mold to your bait. This rig is a little hard to explain but its simple ,it looks like the frame of a hacksaw but instead of a metal blade your have a strip of sand paper. Be sure you dont use paper sandpaper it wont hold up use belt sander belts or cloth backed sandpaper. I always like to talk shop and this thread has been the best one in a long while come on guys keep this baby going.

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Jamie,

That's a great idea. I've been a carpenter for over 40 years, and never run across anything like that. I'll bet, if you sand it right, the frame will flex enough to keep pressure on the belt, so it won't slip off.

Great, now I have to take time away from luremaking and fishing to make another tool! :o)

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For kill dots or shad dots whatever you want to call them I use a q-tip. It makes a perfect circle but is easier to control than say a nail head or straw or other things I've heard of. You can also make different sizes depending on how hard you press it onto the lure. It won't drip or bulge because the cotton on the q-tip holds the paint. I actually did this by accident not having a nail or anything. I looked down at the q-tip I had just cleaned the airbrush with and gave it a go. I love when things work out like that.:)

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when you are useing your router have you ever had your finger a little to close for comfort to the blade. I use a little rig to save my fingers. Take a block of wood and put a handle on top it should look like a hand sander that holds dry wall screens for sanding drywall mud. Onthe bottom of the the rig glue down a piece of that no slip pads used in the work shop. When useing your router table take your rig and place it over top of your bait and guide it through the blade. Your hand is out of the way , think of it as a kind of push stick . I wish that I could have explained it a little better but when I figure out how to post pictures you will understand what Im saying. Lets here the next one guys lets keep this puppy going .

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Jamie- Panel beaters/ spray painters use something like this to sand curves on fenders etc. It has a spring steel backing, and looks like a 'Surform' with a flexible sanding face - I threw one away about 12 months ago - darn. pete

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Hi guys, just found your hiding place :yeah:

Of course, being new here I don't know if this is a new idea,

but anyway, here goes:

Making my profile I uploaded the Hal2000 avatar.. I tend to use it a lot

in forums.. not very original, maybe, but I kind of like it.

Then... FISH EYES!! :eek: Yes! My first project (ever) will be

a slider (simple to make, aren't they?) with HAL2000 eyes!

(You've seen the movie, right?

2001: A Space Odyssey )

Had to try, so I mixed some epoxy glue, with black and red powder

and.. yes, it got messy. The stuff mixed in ways unintended..:mad:

Then I saw the article here about foil (?), and how you can make

patterns on a printer. So, that's next.. I will print the eyes

(see attachment) out on silk paper and try to cut them out.

Will that work, do you think?

Anyway, that's my tip: Make Hal2000 eyes for your baits!!

It's a winner! Must be.. ?

If that doesn't catch, try making the eyes of:

Palpatine

and the fish will be scared to death and float up. Surely! :)

Regards from Norway

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Ive got another one for you. I read post in the past about foilling baits in a vaccuum seal bag like used in veneer projects to help imprint scales.. Not to get into the technique but to make a pump try useing a pump that you blead your car brakes with and a ziploc freezer bag. Just clip the corner of the bag insert your hose and duct tape the sealshut on both sides.place the bait inside and there you go. I never done a bait this way but I have veneered a small box this way. Batter up who has the next one lets keep this thing going.

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Hmmm...those shad dots or "kill dots". I use a hand held hole punch. I get those paint samples from the hardware store. Punch them dudes out with the color I want for the dot. Attach them with stick adhesive. Then...you can move em around to where there in just the right place (even with the dot on the other side). Press them hard so they are stuck good. Then...just "Devcon" right over em. Perfectly round dot. My wife has several sizes of hand punches. I use the real small ones or the regular size (notebook ringbinder size).

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Hey...I have an alternate idea for the bow sander for folks that only have paper sandpaper onhand. I did this recently and it worked......Get one of your old belts from the closet. Material or leather will do. Cut it up into various sized strips. Maybe 4", 6" 10" and larger if you eat alot. Cut your sandpaper into strips the same length and width. Use two of those spring loaded paper clip thing-a-majigs to secure the paper to the belt on each end. Grip it at each end and use it like a shoe shine rag. You now have a primitive bow sander.

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for what happens to you if you obtain the belt without first checking with your wife.

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Thanks for all the tips so far guys. Awesome thread.

Sanding help.

I don't build baits that long and I find it hard to lay down that final precise shape on the baits. Untill now I always handcarved them and sanded them in shape with viles and sanding paper. Besides this method is timeconsuming I found that control is limited. I was looking for something faster and more accurate. So after spending some time on the www to get some ideas I made myself a sanding drum to fit in my drillpress. Those drums can be bought but here in Holland most stores don't have them so I build one myself.

Really, for me this works like a charm. Now I can shape my baits fast and with much more control. The pictures speak for themselves. If you want more detailed info don't hesitate to ask.

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Grtz Paul

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This may be a common sense painting tip but I use those disposable multi-purpose vinyl gloves you can get at hardware stores for painting. Not only do they protect your hands from extra scrubbing after but I use mine similar to an artists pallate whereby I often give the side of my gloved hand a quick shot to make sure my airbrush is not clogged, airpressure & texture is good, etc. just before hitting the lure.

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Was shaping some swimbaits last night, and while hand sanding (ugh) I was thinking about the tips listed here. Then I had an idea (dangerous at my age) and got a small sponge and glued sandpaper to it with tacky glue. This provided an excellent cushion to get me the contours I was after and baits came out better than ever before. I don't get ideas often as the recovery time is too long, but hope this helps.

David

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Ha, ha. That's funny.

Don't you just hate it when you know you had a great idea, but can't remember what it was?

That sponge idea is a good one.

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I got another one for you. When useing etex temp, humidity plays a big factor in dry time or even when its safe to turn your dryer off. I dont know about you but I always have to stop myself from touching the bait to see if its ok to stop the motor. try making a test bait it can be a scrape peice of wood rounded over it can only be an inch or two long if you want put it on the dryer with the other baits. For all of us who dont have a heated garage this might save from haveing finger prints on your baits. All right guys whos next.

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When applying foil over very fine mesh, and using my thumb to rub in the pattern doesn't work, I use a pencils gum to rub it in.

Works great.

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I have another one for you guys.Take a marking guage, you carpenters will no what im talking about,and make them a little bit more versatile. One one side of the guage there is an awl used for markingbut on the other end of the slide arm drill a hole big enough for a pencil and cut a slot from the end of the arm to the hole were the pencil goes. Place the pencil inthe hole and drive a screw through the side were the slot is and tighten the pencil in. Now you ask how is this going to help me in making baits. Now you have a tool that you can mark a center line down the top and bottom of your bait. For you guys that use a sander or carve your baits instead of useing a router you can mark off how much wood to take off or use the center line to judge how much you need to shave off. On crank baits you have to mirror image each side of the bait, what you take off oneside you need to do the same on the other side. A compass is used to draw circles this tool draws staight lines fast and easy.

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I'm starting to make good on my promise to give back to this place which of course without I could have never become an apprentice lure maker.

Instead of doing cuts to shape my lure I use a disk sander. I mark my lure and instead of running it thru the band saw I remove (not cut in this case) the wood to shape by pressing against the disk sander. With a bit of practice I have become very accurate and my lure is sanded at the same time.

Best advice I can give using this method is patience and practice and go slow. It really is way more accurate than using a band saw. It can be a bit tricky on larger lures. Also take small amounts of wood of instead of trying to go for full removal.

Imagine a wood blank. You want to take a cut off of the 4 corners. Using a band saw works but anyone who has knows it can be tricky to get it straight. Now take the wood and gently press it against the disk. Slowly work the lure and presto you'll have a perfect edge.

If I had a video you'd be impressed so just give it a try, practice and patience.

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1 more

Measure twice, cut once.

Make sure every time you take out your tools that your blades and tables etc are square.

Been burnt on boith of these many times.

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Using the bottom of a can is not a new idea. But I have found that cans made as one piece moldings ie rimless are very good. I use them for epoxy and mixing small batches of paint, zero waste and easy to clean. I cut them back as shown in the pic and lightly soll the sharp edge over with a hammer. You can make half a dozen in 15 minutes. Cans from coffee or milo drinks work best, with the smaller diameter.

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Guys Ive been airbrushing for a week now and I couldnt get past a scale pattern. The mesh would move around and it just got frustrating, theres always a better way right well this works for me. Women thread in and out of these plastic sheets makin there precious designs but when i saw em at Michaels in the knitting section I thought about scales. I dont know exactly what there called but i take the sheets place them over a blank bait of the same type that im puttn scales on. Line up the scales how you like and take a mini torch is what i use and heat the sheet, slow or youll melt it, form it to the bait a little at a time and hold it in place till it begins to cool then itll stay there. Keep this up and youll basically end up with half a mesh mold. Now whenever you paint say a Sammy 3 weeks later you can find that mold slide it on there perfect fit and spray away just make sure you mold it tight to the bait when you form the mold and be patient let the paint dry before you remove it. This was my first brilliant ''I wonder if anyones thought of this'' moments and for a moment i thought it would be my secret till I thought about all the disasters I avoided thanks to everyones help. I hope somebody benefits from it cuz yallve sure helped me.

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