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Quick Tips...take em all, but leave one of your own!
146 replies to this topic
Posted 23 February 2007 - 12:23 AM
fatfingers- I dont know why I never thought about that before!! I wish you would have posted that about 4 hours ago, as I ruined an awesome paint job while I was putting kill dots on it. Do you use an epoxy or what for the clear in between colors?
Posted 23 February 2007 - 01:09 AM
It works great, Trey.
I sometimes use epoxy since I like to wind up with 3 coats or more on the final bait. But more often I use automotive clear, which may not jive with Createx-type paints.
I paint strictly with enamels, which are thinned with lacquer thinner, as is the automotive clear.
I wouldn't hesitate to put on a thin coat of epoxy if the automotive clear won't work over water-based paints, but I dont see why it wouldn't. Not sure though.
Posted 23 February 2007 - 01:11 AM
By the way, I use electrical tape for my kill dots. I use a paper punch and punch the kill dot out of the tape and stick it on. Nice uniform round dots every time. The epoxy clearcoat blends them in nicely.
Posted 23 February 2007 - 12:05 PM
I also use electrical tape for dots but also use the colored tape for things like gills. One of the biggest advatages to this that I have found is being able to reposition them easily if they are not exactly where you want them.
Posted 23 February 2007 - 08:12 PM
Just another twist on the perfect shad dot: I use the back end of an 1/8 or 3/16 drill bit depending on the lure size.
Posted 25 February 2007 - 12:47 PM
Make your own line ties:
Take a block of wood, like a 10 inch piece of 2x4 and hammer two nails into it just far enough apart that the wire fits in between the nails.
Slip the wire between the nails and you have a great wire bender.
Experiment by trying to duplicate the lip wire shapes and line ties you see on commercially sold bait. Its easy and you'll be making your own line tie wires in no time.
Doing it yourself allows you to make a variety of different types and you can also use different wire strenghts and diameters.
I use spinner bait wire for the line ties on musky baits.
I'd recommend you buy only stainless steel wire or something similar. Rust and corrosion are your enemies.
Posted 05 March 2007 - 10:48 AM
I agree. It gives some good tips and ideas to search. I have to find it and it gets put back in the pages.
I learned a tip for practicing painting. Use a piece of plexi glass/lexan to practice your painting on. Back it with a piece of white paper so you can see your colors. Use it to test your paint pattern and flow before actual lure application. I was using paper before and the paper asorbed the paint but it would run/splatter on the lure. Plexi glass is more like the lure surface . I'm Going to practice more to get the right mixture of thinner and paint.
Posted 05 March 2007 - 02:36 PM
That's a great idea, Skeeter. If you clear the stuff first, you could wipe it off when you're done and you're ready for the next time.
Posted 01 May 2007 - 04:30 AM
To get "PROPIONATE" to dissolve quicker- stick it in an old coffee grinder (rotary electric) and belt the crap out of it. Fine crystals of plastic will dissolve quicker in acetone because of greater surface area in contact with acetone. Be aware of the fineness of the plastic and eyes/ lungs. Pete
Posted 06 June 2007 - 12:15 AM
When writing post replies etc, of more than a couple of lines. Write the text in a word document save it for safety. The text can then be selected and pasted onto the TU message.
A lot of members are already doing this. I have lost countless hours in retyping lost text due to crashes, internet freezes etc.
Posted 12 June 2007 - 12:10 AM
2 Tips... Don't Use Your Cieling To Dry Resin Coated Plugs, When The Phone Rings And You Stand Up They Hit You In The Head... That Is Not Fun... Also Try Hindley Manufacturings Screw Company's Brass Wood Eye Screws On Plugs. They Wont Rust.
Posted 12 June 2007 - 07:37 AM
Craft stores sell hole punches down to 1/16. I use them to make eyes,kill dots etc.Use 1/8 for an eye and 1/16 for the pupil.
Posted 12 June 2007 - 11:52 AM
I'm amazed at some of the great tips that have been hung on this thread!
Here's one that I think might be helpful.
If you prefer to avoid melting and pouring lead to add weight to your baits, try this:
Go to a Hunting/Sporting Goods store and purchase "round balls" for a muzzleloading rifle. Bullets are available in a variety of weights, sizes and shapes. The nice thing is that you can mix and match the bullets to achieve the desired weight you need for any bait.
You can also purchase bullets in shapes other than round. In other words, a variety of traditional bullet projectiles are available for purchasing. The prices are reasonable and you get usually 50 or more in a box.
Also you can use fishing sinkers, but they are available only in a limited number of shapes. Split shot sinkers can be more appropriate for lighter, smaller baits.
Posted 12 June 2007 - 11:55 PM
I've been using Dicknite's lurecoat topcoat to seal all of my non-balsa lures. One coat is all that's usually needed, as it doesn't raise the grain. After drying a day or two, I hit it with some 800 automotive paper to knock off the gloss, and it's ready for foiling, or your choice of base coat. It works very very well as a sealer!
Posted 13 June 2007 - 06:58 AM
One way to put a thin clear on multiple baits with epoxy is to take a cold soda flip it upside down and mix your epoxy in the bottom of it, meanwhile you are heating up your bait till it is warm. Then start spreading the epoxy on, it will get nice and thin and it takes a long time for the cold devcon on the soda can to set up so you can do multiple baits at once. I find this better then thinging it or heating up the epoxy which makes it cure to fast.
Posted 14 June 2007 - 08:36 AM
Many of us use flux brushes to spread epoxy. To keep the hairs firmly in place, crimp them in with your round nosed pliers before using. This little tech. has really cut down on the amount of hairs I have to pick out of my top-coat.
One more: When using plumbers epoxy to fill holes, have your alcohol handy. Dip your finger in rubbing alcohol and rub the surface of the patch till smooth. It almost eliminates sanding after it sets up.
Posted 08 August 2007 - 06:49 PM
instead of posting pictures on ebay use a slideshow. its cheaper, better looking ,and holds more photos.
Posted 30 August 2007 - 05:27 PM
Hi I am a new member and learning things daily. This probably has been talked about before but there is a 1 part epoxy that is great for dipping lures such as pencil plugs it is made by a co. called top secret coatings and the clear is TS 100. I use empty hormel bacon bit jars for dipping pencil plugs and they work great. "HOGHEAD LURES"
Posted 31 August 2007 - 12:08 PM
If you ever have a paint run... take a small sponge and whip it off very very lightly... it will blend after it dry's and you can keep going without starting over!! Well that is what I do..
But Im just a ROOKIE!!