Jump to content
Quick Tips...take em all, but leave one of your own!
146 replies to this topic
Posted 01 April 2008 - 06:15 PM
I have another one for you guys.Take a marking guage, you carpenters will no what im talking about,and make them a little bit more versatile. One one side of the guage there is an awl used for markingbut on the other end of the slide arm drill a hole big enough for a pencil and cut a slot from the end of the arm to the hole were the pencil goes. Place the pencil inthe hole and drive a screw through the side were the slot is and tighten the pencil in. Now you ask how is this going to help me in making baits. Now you have a tool that you can mark a center line down the top and bottom of your bait. For you guys that use a sander or carve your baits instead of useing a router you can mark off how much wood to take off or use the center line to judge how much you need to shave off. On crank baits you have to mirror image each side of the bait, what you take off oneside you need to do the same on the other side. A compass is used to draw circles this tool draws staight lines fast and easy.
Posted 16 May 2008 - 09:25 PM
I'm starting to make good on my promise to give back to this place which of course without I could have never become an apprentice lure maker.
Instead of doing cuts to shape my lure I use a disk sander. I mark my lure and instead of running it thru the band saw I remove (not cut in this case) the wood to shape by pressing against the disk sander. With a bit of practice I have become very accurate and my lure is sanded at the same time.
Best advice I can give using this method is patience and practice and go slow. It really is way more accurate than using a band saw. It can be a bit tricky on larger lures. Also take small amounts of wood of instead of trying to go for full removal.
Imagine a wood blank. You want to take a cut off of the 4 corners. Using a band saw works but anyone who has knows it can be tricky to get it straight. Now take the wood and gently press it against the disk. Slowly work the lure and presto you'll have a perfect edge.
If I had a video you'd be impressed so just give it a try, practice and patience.
Posted 16 May 2008 - 09:27 PM
Measure twice, cut once.
Make sure every time you take out your tools that your blades and tables etc are square.
Been burnt on boith of these many times.
Posted 24 May 2008 - 12:46 AM
Using the bottom of a can is not a new idea. But I have found that cans made as one piece moldings ie rimless are very good. I use them for epoxy and mixing small batches of paint, zero waste and easy to clean. I cut them back as shown in the pic and lightly soll the sharp edge over with a hammer. You can make half a dozen in 15 minutes. Cans from coffee or milo drinks work best, with the smaller diameter.
Posted 29 July 2008 - 11:02 PM
Guys Ive been airbrushing for a week now and I couldnt get past a scale pattern. The mesh would move around and it just got frustrating, theres always a better way right well this works for me. Women thread in and out of these plastic sheets makin there precious designs but when i saw em at Michaels in the knitting section I thought about scales. I dont know exactly what there called but i take the sheets place them over a blank bait of the same type that im puttn scales on. Line up the scales how you like and take a mini torch is what i use and heat the sheet, slow or youll melt it, form it to the bait a little at a time and hold it in place till it begins to cool then itll stay there. Keep this up and youll basically end up with half a mesh mold. Now whenever you paint say a Sammy 3 weeks later you can find that mold slide it on there perfect fit and spray away just make sure you mold it tight to the bait when you form the mold and be patient let the paint dry before you remove it. This was my first brilliant ''I wonder if anyones thought of this'' moments and for a moment i thought it would be my secret till I thought about all the disasters I avoided thanks to everyones help. I hope somebody benefits from it cuz yallve sure helped me.
Posted 30 July 2008 - 09:27 AM
Great idea Josh. I will have to try that. I think the material you are speaking of is cross stitch fabric. Not sure but I think that's it.
Posted 30 July 2008 - 10:17 AM
I figure you might be better off using a heat gun rather than a torch or hair dryer less flame more heat lol
Posted 30 July 2008 - 01:53 PM
Well as far as having that idea about the knitting mesh first?....no i found that stuff a year ago and tried it with so-so success.I DID NOT think to melt it to conform to a bait though which is brilliant on your part!
Posted 02 August 2008 - 09:32 PM
I hate to admit that I know what it is called, but I think it is the stuff used for "Plastic Canvas Stitchery". If you would ask for that at Michaels, they will know what you mean.
Posted 02 August 2008 - 09:58 PM
Walmart sells what they call "5x7 Rect. Value Plaque" and what it is is a piece of 5"x7"x3/8" plywood. not sure what kind of wood it is made out of, but it is 97¢ per sheet. its great for lures. you can make lures 3/8" thick, or for bigger lures you can cut the piece of wood in half and glue the two halves together for a piece that is 3/4" thick. i can make about 3 4" lures from one sheet!
Posted 03 August 2008 - 11:47 AM
When foiling a bait I use a product called Tack-it. It's a water soluble glue you can get at HB or Michaels. Much less problem than solvent based glues. Brushes on easily and much simpler if you need to strip the foil and try again.
Posted 17 September 2008 - 05:45 PM
I have two,
Adding epoxy to sharp a edge that the epoxy will not stay on. On my bigger musky baits I put three layers of epoxy. Put on the first coat then before adding the second heat up your epoxy so it dries faster and let set until it is almost too stiff to put on then add it to just the sharp edge. Let it dry and sand before adding the next two layers of epoxy. You may need to repeat after the second and before your final coat of epoxy.
Make sure you wood filler is dry before you paint and clear your baits. This is one way you can waste time fixing crack and peeling baits.
Posted 19 January 2009 - 09:26 PM
If your into makeing wooden wooden plug type baits like I am and have a old broom laying around thats no longer useful,you can use the wooden handle as a starting point.
You can make many lures out of one handle.
Only thing is most are pine,and thats not a issues unless your dealing with toothy fish .
PS...please don't steal your wifes broom and cut the handle off,she wont understand...trust me:whistle:
Posted 21 January 2009 - 08:50 PM
Just discovered this thread and thought I would add a few. I shape using sanding drum on drill press. Safer than routers. I use A 2x4 cut with 45 degree angle on one edge as a sanding guide. For cheap marking gauge glue two short boards together at 90 degrees and drill hole thru one the size of a round pencil. Height of pencil hole not important. Insert pencil and pass body by it to make sanding lines around top and bottom of bait. Just use shims of plywood, plastic, or cardboard to adjust height of lines.
Posted 23 January 2009 - 12:09 PM
When it comes to using templates/stencils for painting your baits, try using scrapbook stencils (stole mine from the wife ). They come in all shapes and sizes and can be reused over and over again. Also, if you have a hard time positioning your homemade stencils on a bait when painting, try using clear packaging tape to make a stencil. Fold it over on itself and cut out your design. It's flexible, can be used more than once and, here's the best part, since it's clear you can see exactly where your paint will end up.
Posted 24 January 2009 - 02:11 PM
Damit:pissed: after foiling be sure to degreas your foil after applying the foil, devcon wont stick on it uniformly:pissed:
Well...back to foil now:lol:
Posted 24 January 2009 - 06:46 PM
Epoxying crankbait lips
Epoxy is the most common way to mount a lip but it can be a mess if you aren't careful. Epoxy yellows over months and years. Quick set 5 minute epoxy will age to brown. A bait with brown epoxy squeezed out over the margin of the lip is unattractive. Slow cure epoxies yellow less over time. But quick epoxy gets the lip set in a few minutes and we all like that. Here's the tip: to epoxy lips without getting it on the nose of the bait and out onto the lip, don't "butter" the lip with epoxy! Push epoxy into the slot with a piece of wire, wetting out all the interior slot surfaces. You can fill the slot up if you want. Then just push the dry lip into the slot. The excess will squeeze out the sides at the back of the slot, and none onto the nose/lip intersection. You can wipe it off neatly. You will probably have a little void around the margins of the nose. No problem. You can fill that with epoxy or whatever you use to clearcoat the bait later, and it will not go yellow/brown so quickly.
Posted 26 January 2009 - 06:05 AM
Good to know that slow cure epoxy on top of 5 min. epoxy will prevent the latter to become brownish.
This tip is good in case you clearcoat the lure after you have glued the lip in. But what if someones glues the lip in after clearcoating the lure? I make the lures this way because I want to chose the best lip for each individual lure. So I try several lips before I chose one. Do you have a corresponding tip for such a case?