What's going to happen...

[ominousone]

So I have read and read on here about pouring lead. I feel that I know a ton of wierd ways to improve my pouring, I have probably picked up on some things that would allow me to help a beginner. BUT...

What's going to happen when I finally decide to start the melting pot? For instance, I place the ingots in the pot, start it up get the lead hot, then put the mold in place, and release some lead into the mold to heat it. NOw is where I have my question, how long must the lead stay in the mold to take shape? Do I have to pick it out of the mold? Does the lead after coming out take long to cool? If it is hot would I need to put my lead on a surface that could withstand really hot temps? Can I leave some lead in the pot when I'm done pouring or do I have to pour it out into something when I'm done pouring?

TU, I must say you as a community are amazing and have helped me so much. Thank you for past help, and thanks in advance today.

[LedHed]

“How long must the lead stay in the mold to take shape?” Lead sets up quick, but you don’ want to open your mold right away –give it a few minutes. I usually warm up my molds on the pot while it’s heating up and if I’m going to pour different molds – I rotate them on the pot.

“Do I have to pick it out of the mold?” Depends on what you are pouring. Keep a pair of pliers, needle nose, and flush cutters near by. Careful when you use tools around molds – don’t want to score or damage the mold.

“Does the lead after coming out take long to cool?” The lead cools rapidly – again depends on what you are pouring. Take your time. NO short cuts. I learned from Richoc that you want the lure to cool slowly in the mold before you pop it out – especially with larger jigs. The lead is more malleable and the sprue comes off a lot easier.

“If it is hot would I need to put my lead on a surface that could withstand really hot temps?” Your whole work area should be high temp protected. Be prepared for the worse case scenario.

“Can I leave some lead in the pot when I'm done pouring or do I have to pour it out into something when I'm done pouring?” I leave a lot of lead, almost full in a 4-20 pot. When you get ready to re-use the pot - don’t mess with it until it’s completely heated up.

Don’t forget, at the least, safety glasses and gloves.

[WidowMaker]

Pouring lead is strictly trial and error. You can read volumes on doing it but you will never learn until you actually do it.

Start with safety first. Alaways assume all lead has moisture in it until you pre-melt it outside and immediately place it some where moisture cant get into it. Never place any lead into your melting pot unless you have personally premelted it outside first.

Wheel weights are bad about this. They will get water down next to the steel clips and if you put them in the pot they will go straight to the bottom. Then it will blow from the bottom of the pot up and launch 10 pounds of liquid lead into the air and it will sound like a 12 guage shotgun going off.

I was once melting lead outside and there wasnt a cloud in the sky. I was walking with a pot of it which i had melted and all of a sudden i felt rain drops. Instead of throwing it i completely freaked out froze up and stood there. I was very lucky none of it hit the pot...how it kept form going into the pot ill never know. Why that happened with not a single cloud in the sky ill never know.

Start with an empty/cold pot and fill it with as much lead as possible. If there are gaps between the larger pieces fill those gaps with small pieces. Turn the pot on and leave it alone until it is completely melted. After it melts add more lead (not cold lead...lead that is room temp) to that which is melted until the lead in the pot is within 1 inch from the top.

I lay corrugated cardboard on my work table to dump my jigs on...it will get hot and smell but its not going to catch on fire.

Always oil the hinges of the mold. Even when it looks like there is enough oil wipe the excess off and add more. The oil will break down from the heat. It will also help if you happen to drop lead into the hinge area. Never try to open a mold with lead in the hinge because it will bend the hinge pins and cause misalignment and ruin the mold. Wait until it cools and pull it out with a pair of side cutters.

The first time you pour into a cold mold pour all the cavities. This would be what i call a blank pour. Allow the blank pour to stay in the mold for 30 seconds which will allow heat to build in the mold. Its probably best to do five blank pours before putting the hooks into the mold for the intial first full pour.

Allow the first initial full pour to sit in the mold for about thirty second because the first set of hooks were cold which cooled the mold before the lead was poured.

Dump the intial first pour and quickly reload the mold with the second set of hooks and then do the second pour. Let the second pour sit while you take a look at the first initial pour and see what they look like.

Dump the second pour and relaod the mold with hooks for the third pour. Let the third pour sit while you inspect what was the second pour...if the second pour looked good then you are doing good.

[Tr186]

My experience has been a little different from the above posts so trial and error will be the lesson.

I have been pouring with a ladle for years and here is what I have found.

1. The lead takes shape instantly. As soon as the lead comes out of the heat source it begins to cool. Once it comes in contact with the mold the heat is distributed throughout the mold. Lead will conduct heat however it will not retain it.

2. I only wait before opening the mold long enough to lay my ladle down and walk over to my work bench. (20 seconds) By that point the pour is already cool enough to pick up with my hands and break off the sprue. I don't even have to cut it as it is still mallable.

3. I don't worry about the surface bec. the lead cools almost instantly. However, my bench does have a plywood top so it would not matter anyway.

4. I pour with a ladle and a pot so I don't have experience with electric machines but I definately leave lead in my pot.

That being said, WidowMaker is correct, just start playing and you will figure it out pretty quick. Good Luck.

[Richoc]

Guess some of us have faster hands than others.

I can pour and open my molds faster than the lead cools.

It is best practice to cover the bench with sheet metal.

Cooling the castings on the cardborad not a good idea, I know I can set off a smoke alarm that way.

Waiting to cut off the sprue is the best way to make shure that you do not end up with loose hooks or wires.

Handle the parts with a pliers, try not to contact the mold, hot alum. will scratchs real easy.

For god sake do not eat or have any water near you while working with melted lead.

One drop of forehead sweat will blow up on you.

Vent the exhaust!!!!!!

Keep the temp only as hot as it needs to be to pour full casts.

Baby sit that pot as it heats up!!!!

When done pouring.

Wash your hands before touching any thing..............

[WidowMaker]

I havent actually timed myself here lately but several years ago i could load a six cavity mold with hooks and pour one shot in eighteen seconds or less. Due to practice ive managed to cut a few seconds off since then.

I dont have a smoke alarm where i pour due to sometimes getting lead in the hinge areas and then putting the lead back into the pot. The oil will put off a bit of smoke. I use the cardboard because it is cheap and it doesnt matter if it gets scorched. Besides i later use it to to dye plastics and mix epoxy on.

The card board wont catch on fire just from hot lead contact. With my older lee pot i use a two inch long piece of cardboard paper towel tube on the deck to contain splashing when it drips. If the cardboard tube sticks to the lead i put the whole thing in the pot and let it burn off.

Richoc is right about the issue of water being near the pot. This also goes for spit cups if you chew tobacco. I know theres been a few times i really got rocking and didnt notice i was begining to sweat. One little drop of sweat would be all it takes and them BOOM!!! You will get fragged.

If you think you might be sweating it a good idea to tie a rolled up bandana around your head.

Also its best not to let anyone in the shop when you are pouring. Alot of people have never seen someone pour and they tend to get pretty curious about what you are doing.

I once walked into a old bait shop that looked like it was about half closed down. The moment i stepped in i could smell the lead in the air and there was a old man sitting and pouring snagging weights. Not a bit of ventilation noticeable which made me wonder how many years he had been doing that and about the level of lead in his blood.

["EYE" DOCTOR]

When im pouring into molds i just watch the sprue at the top. When the sprue is hard the lure is hard and can be removed.

I put mine on a piece of treated plywood to cool. It burns a little and smells a little too but it doesnt deform the soft lead like metal will.

I never use oil in the hinges because of the smoke and blackness i used to get in my molds. The only thing i use for lubrication now is a white candle. Just wiat until the mold starts to get hot and touch the candle to the pivot points. It lubes the hinges well and all of the excess just drips off. I also do this when im finished pouring and before the mold cools so it has some startup lube for next time. Use caution and do not get the wax in the melter because it will cause a small fire.