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New drying motor
30 replies to this topic
Posted 27 January 2007 - 07:06 AM
Hey guys just want some opinions...Just got a new motor possibly for my drying wheel. Its a scrunnger motor out used with a CNC lathe..for what I'm not exactly sure , but anyhow it turns my wheel approx. 14 times a minute compared to 6 with the rottiserie motor. Everything I've read six is rule of thumb, what affect will this have on the clear coat ?? Are my feelings about it possibly pushing the clear to one end of the bait ?
Posted 27 January 2007 - 07:24 AM
i think at 14rpm you'll find the clear coat would stay as you put it on and not even out,as it wouldn't have time to settle before it's turned round again.i use a 4rpm motor with e-tex and to my mind get a better finish than the 6rpm motor it replaced
Posted 27 January 2007 - 08:08 AM
Keep in mind, whatever the RPM of the motor, it is measured at
the shaft, the further you attach your lure away from this shaft,
the faster the lure moves to keep up with the motor shaft.
No, the RPM of the lure remains the same, just the speed of travel
Posted 27 January 2007 - 08:53 AM
Coley's right, but for our practical purposes you wont extend the bait from the shaft far enough for centrifugal force to be a factor, especially at low RPM's it might be a factor at 14rpm, but not 4-6rpm.
The reasoning behind using a drying wheel is to allow gravity its due time on as much surface area as possible to allow the topcoat to level properly & prevent it from getting a chance to droop or drip.
At 14rpm, if your handy enough, you could use 2 gears or pulley/belt to reduce the ratio to 3:1 meaning that the drive shaft rotates 3 times while the driven shaft (wheel) turns only once. That'll give you @ 4.5 rpm.
If you could find a pulley to fit your motor shaft with a 1" dia. & use a belt to attach it to a 3" pulley on the driven shaft, you'll be in business if the motor can output the needed torque, which is just as important as RPM.
Good luck, let us see it if you get 'er goin.
Posted 27 January 2007 - 12:06 PM
The Rpms were calibrated at the end of the dowel where the bait is attached.
Posted 27 January 2007 - 01:02 PM
Like Coley said, RPM's are the same, regardless of distance from the shaft. I think what he was getting at is with a higher RPM & a bait on a holder, centrifugal force might push the topcoat to the end farthest from the wheel.
Posted 27 January 2007 - 03:19 PM
Ya, even with same rpm, the furthest point of a lure from center is drawing a bigger circle. Speed = distance traveled in time. So the outer most past will be spinning relatively faster speed, hence more centrifugal force & far enough out, that might swing the epoxy out towards that end.
Posted 27 January 2007 - 03:32 PM
You could make a simple pulley system yourself, doesn't need to be particularly accurate, at 15rpm it won't need to be balanced.
I agree with Bezyb, no time for distribution.
Posted 29 January 2007 - 05:51 AM
A cheap round knob light dimmer wall switch will let you adjust it to whatever speed you desire up to the max the motor has.I use this to change rpms from jerkbaits to cranks.Gives my longer baits a little more hang time, works very well.
Posted 29 January 2007 - 12:03 PM
I reduced the speed of my motor using a vacuum cleaner belt and a fishing line spool as a pulley. The belt fits in the spool perfectly and with the sides on the spool it can't slip off.
Posted 29 January 2007 - 03:15 PM
Very inovative ideas guys. If it does'nt work I will probably give one of them a try. I especially like the idea of dialing in what I want.
Posted 19 February 2016 - 09:08 AM
Anyone have issues with rotisserie motors dropping. Even if I balance mine perfectly the dowel had some play and likes to drop an inch every downward rotation. This is effecting my epoxy greatly. Right now the dowel is mounted in the rotisserie but I do not know what I can do about the play.
Posted 19 February 2016 - 10:29 AM
I found that, with my ferris wheel type turner and rotisserie motor (1 rpm) I needed to load it evenly so it would rotate smoothly.
If I was turning just one lure, I'd put another lure of the same weight on the opposite side of the wheel for balance.
Otherwise, the play in the socket where the shaft entered the motor would allow the shaft to move suddenly.
You might try adding tape to the end of your shaft so there is no play where it enters the motor, too.
But I found balancing the load was key.
Posted 19 February 2016 - 01:54 PM
Posted 19 February 2016 - 01:58 PM
That was my first attempt at a quote sorry. I do understand the weight balance this and it gets tricky the more lures I put on.
I don't quite understand the tape on the end of the dowel though. I carved my dowel square and mounted inside the motor so the play is actually where the motor intersects the dowel.
Posted 19 February 2016 - 02:48 PM
I have had that issue as well. I found that it wasn't the fit of the dowel into the square slot but play in the actual motor casing somewhere (maybe a loose fitting of some sort). I have had two cheaper rotisserie motors die on me and I bought a third to replace them (different brand this time) and a fourth as a back up. There has to be a better way but right now I'm still working with the rotisserie motors. I'm contemplating buying a high end disco ball motor. What do you guys think?
Posted 19 February 2016 - 04:30 PM
Did the better unit reduce the issue or no? Im debating buying another motor
Posted 19 February 2016 - 05:27 PM
What are the disco ball motors like? I use a rotisserie motor with the actually rotisserie rack that falls out every ten minutes...well more that it comes out...it doesn't fall. I'm just looking to switch it up.