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skeeter jones

Foam mold making

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New... I have been trring to sort out the old post.. Looks like making a lure out of foam can be neat. I have seen that bondo was used for a two part mold. Saw that the way to go was a RTV mold. Can someone give me the up to date method for making a mold. Is there a book that has become this sites bible for mold making... any recomendations for a book.. recent post.

Skeeter Jones

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RTV is the best. Bondo or durhams rock puddy can also be used. The RTV will churn out a lot more baits and is more forgiving. With the bondo and rock puddy care must be taken not to let the foam set up too long and attention to crankbait design more critical. Don't want to design a crank that will effectively lock itself into the mold do to undercuts for example (RTV no problem but reduces life of the mold in my experience). Mold release a must on bondo and rock puddy.

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Travis, thanks for the info.. Here is another ??? I read that someone made his own plastic coat out of Laquer and melted plastic cups. (The coating put on after you pull the lure out of the mold). Is there a product pre-made for this and who is the supplier.

The key with finishing any lure you cast, is to make sure you remove every trace of mold release. I wipe mine down with alcohol and was them in really hot soapy water, then thoroughly rinse with hot water.

I like to base coat with a dip of disolved plastic. The Bottom one received a few dips.

WeightedBomber.jpg

Tally made a tutorial on how to make the stuff. Propionate Pellets are better than cups and are available on Ebay or through Swede.

I use flat head nails as my guide pins. I insert them appx. 1/2" into the clay prior to pouring the first half and make sure I cover the heads with atleast 1/2" of whatever Material I'm using to make the mold from.

Here's a pictue of a Bondo Mold I made for Jig Heads.

Baittail.jpg

I get perfect alignment everytime and I'm able to put the halves together w/o distutbing the weights and harnesses I'm casting into the castings.

I've used the hard urethane rubber, shore hardness 80 with good results. The Tin Sil Silicone looks to be a good product.

Here's an early Poes mold w/o locating pins. The material is Urethane rubber, Shore 80 hardness.

FM2.jpg

As Travis said, you can get good results from rigid (Bondo, etc) molds, but the molds must be perfect. w/o any undercuts. The Softer mor flexible rubbers allow for some margin of error, although I must say, you should strive for perfection in any even.

Freemans Tutorials are very informative and they make it look easy.

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This has been up so many times before but here we go

when using solo or other cups use virgin lacquer thinner only!!

acetone doesnt work with the cups. Theres no shortcuts using this technicue

If you use propionate pellets like i do you can use either

virgin lacquer thinner or acetone .I myself prefer acetone

Why? Less odors &cures harder if you ask me .

search on theese words (plastic dip, plasti dip ,plastic cups , propionate pellets )

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Who made the Urethane molds in the picture???????

:oooh: Holy Too Many Thumbnails Batman!! THE MOLD IN THE PIC IS COLEY'S. Sorry, EC, I pulled that Pic out of the vault, thinking it was a Poe Mold I'd made. No slight intended. I thought it was this one;

DSCF0004-1.jpg

DSCF0002-2.jpg

I'm editing the other post, right now. (TOO late, the edit function is no longer available.)

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Brave viper, The foam they use comes in a two part mix, not an aresol can. It is the 16 lb (strength) foam. There are a couple of post that has a link to the companies. Search this site using key word "Foam" and you will get some answers. I'm new too..

Thanks swede for answering the question on acteone and virgin lacquer.

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