basser_jim

Painting question

13 posts in this topic

I just purchased a Paasche Vl off of Ebay... it comes with several bottles of Createx paint.... the question that I have is when I start painting is there any sort of primer required, or just my base color?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks a lot... now I have another question....

RE making my own lures.... if I were to use Devcon as a sealant, It would be best to shoot an acrylic basecoat before shooting the createx??? Did I read that right?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No. Brush the epoxy directly on the wood as a waterproofer and sanding sealer, then shoot a color basecoat of white acrylic, then color. Also, Shoot epoxy? Brush it on. It's too thick to spray and if it cures before you can clean it out, your airbrush is toast. I like epoxy to waterproof balsa because it greatly strengthens the lure. On hardwoods, you have wider choices because the primary function is only as a sanding sealer to keep water based acrylics from raising the wood grain. So you can use sanding sealer, polyurethane or any solvent based coating. Some use plastic cups or cellulose propionate pellets melted in acetone for that purpose. Acetone evaporates quickly so you can undercoat the lure and be ready to start painting in 15 minutes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand that you dont shoot epoxy....and I understand that you brush it onto the wood to seal it.... I don't think that I phrased my question right.... is this correct: Createx will not always stick to epoxy very well, but acrylic will stick to the epoxy, and the createx will stick to it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

UH.... Createx IS acrylic paint. It just doesn't have very good adhesion compared to some other brands. Personally, I basecoat with thinned Apple Barrel Flat White acrylic using a VL. I flash dry it with a hair dryer and shoot successive coats until the lure is uniformly bright white (usually that means 2 or 3 coats). Just don't shoot the basecoat too thick and don't flash dry it too fast/hard or you can cause cracks in the paint or even push paint around with the dryer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I just purchased a Paasche Vl off of Ebay... it comes with several bottles of Createx paint.... the question that I have is when I start painting is there any sort of primer required, or just my base color?

hey i paint my own lures and i use a white primer on them. i also use taxidermy paint the laqur kind from a local suplier call waso (wildlife artist supply company in monroe, Ga.) it comes already mix with the thinner ready to spray i need more info on a good expoy clearcoat for my lures. got any ideas.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Your question about clear coat could open up a real can of worms around here :flame: . There are several good ones you can use. It's all in your preference. Most use Devcon, Envvironmental lite (E-tex) or Dicknites Fishermans Lurecoat. There are a few others not listed but you will just have to find the one that works best for you. Do a search for clearcoats and you will find enough info to keep you busy for quite a while. :twocents:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many TU guys use Devcon 2 Ton or Envirotex Lite. The Devcon 2T comes in a double syringe at Walmart for $2. Don't get Devcon 5 Min epoxy by mistake! Envirotex Lite comes in 2 ea 8 oz bottles sold as a table top epoxy at craft stores like Michaels. I've used both. Both work fine over water based acrylic paints. D2T cures to touch in 4-5 hrs and has a 5-10 min work time (brushing time). EL cures in 6-8 hrs and has a longer work time. The EL contains solvent and can cause solvent based colors to run. An EL clearcoat is usually thinner than D2T, so may require multiple coats depending on the application. Epoxy should be applied and cured at room temperature. The DickNite Lurecoat is a moisture cured one part polyurethane with rather demanding handling and application parameters, but it does yield a nice clearcoat. JMHO, the Devcon 2T has the shortest "learning curve" to get a professional looking clearcoat. There have been copious discussions on the above; search for more details!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now