30 replies to this topic
Posted 28 January 2008 - 06:15 AM
I designed a swivelling laptop table. To make prototypes, I had to do a lot of routering. I did not fancy the 'cutter up' table, so I designed a 'cutter down' table, with the fixed router mounted in the lid. When the lid was lifted, a micro switch isolated the power. When the lid was down, it was physically impossible to get near the bit. You were working blind, but that is not a problem when using the template method.
The 6kg router made the lid very heavy, so I designed a dampened cantilever system, so the lid could be opened with only light force and could be released and it would not slam down. It contained more design than than the laptop table I was trying to prototype!
Now that the lid mounted table has been proven, if I was to router small parts, like lure bodies, I would definately go the same route again. Not the most convenient tool to use, but, like fatfingers, I am really attached to my digits.
Posted 28 January 2008 - 11:32 AM
Hand held routers with piloted bits are much safer than router table, which are just small shapers. At least, with your hands on the router, you fingers are up and out of the way.
I've seen shaper throw materials 50' in a shop. Router tables, while smaller, can still throw a piece of wood back into you with penetrating force. Read spear or arrow.
As was stated earlier, ALWAYS feed against the rotation of the bit, so the cutter is coming toward the work, or you will have the work snatched out of your hand and hurled somewhere you don't want it to go.
And always use sharp bit. Nothing is more dangerous than a dull tool.
Posted 28 January 2008 - 11:59 PM
How did you make that double roundover bit? I looked at some shaper bits that were double roundover, but couldn't find anything in router size. Did you start with a stock bit of some sort and do some calculated mutilation?
Posted 29 January 2008 - 12:23 AM
Double round over bits are very common. Just go to a woodworking store, or site online. Piloted carbide bits are the way to go. Shape your lure, sand it smooth on the edge, and set the bit so you keep a little of the smooth to ride the pilot on. I prefer 1/4 round bits, so I can use the actual lure for the pattern, instead of having to attach a pattern. But if you're into production, the pattern and 1/2 round bit could be the way to go.
Posted 29 January 2008 - 12:51 PM
On routering baits. Do you guys frist cut the lip slot frist and then router. Or router then cut the lip slot?
Posted 29 January 2008 - 11:54 PM
Pete has a great tutorial in the Member Submitted Tutorial (MST) section - In that presentation, he cuts the lip before shaping (sanding) the lure. The router wasn't used in the MST publication and if I had to guess, I'd think Pete would cut the lip before shaping the lure so the cut is as squared up to the blade as possible. The MST also is good at showing how to make a jig for making that cut the same way every time.
Posted 30 January 2008 - 01:08 AM
Gee Spike you tidied that up, great job, it really shows when someone knows what they are doing. Thanks again pete
Posted 30 January 2008 - 09:19 AM
Thanks much. I was just thinking that the router might chip out a part of the wood arounf the lip slot. I,ve had that happen a few times and had to toss that blank in the wood burner. It might have ben from the grain out the wood.
Posted 30 January 2008 - 09:35 AM
When I'm routing, I stop the bit before any end that might chip, like a lip slot, so it can't grab the end and ruin the piece. Then I hand shape that remaining part with a sanding block. Quick, safe, and not tear out risk.
Posted 01 February 2008 - 08:14 AM
I use a plexiglass plate on the base of my router and clamp it upside down in my vice to make a makeshift router table. Works pretty swell and I saved $$ in that I did not need to buy a router table. You do need to be careful with where your fingers are relative to the router bit.