barry batchelor

adding internal rattle

15 posts in this topic

I seldom do this because I believe wood baits should usually not have rattles. But there are various ways to do it. Many use a preformed or commercial brass or glass rattle, drilling a hole and epoxying it in. But most rattles are too long to fit a 3/8" wide bass bait and besides, I find the tube/worm rattles are not very loud encased in wood and epoxy. That's the reason they call them "ticker rattles" - you can barely hear them! The method I use (hardwood baits only) is louder but more labor intensive:

Drill a hole through the bait large enough to easily accept a 5mm glass bead. Smooth the inside with a Dremel stone.

Cut 2 covers about twice the hole's diameter from an aluminum Coke can (plain sissors do nicely). Recess the areas where the covers will fit slightly with a Dremel high speed cutter.

Epoxy one cover in place with 5 min epoxy and let it cure. Put in the bead and epoxy the other side. Don't epoxy the bead!

When cured, cover the side areas with wood putty and sand smooth.

The glass bead hitting the aluminum covers produces more noise than you hear from most wood bait rattles. It also puts out a definite little shock wave you can feel if you rattle the bait while holding the sides. I think that's a good thing. I've tried steel and lead shot but it can unbalance a small bait, so went to glass. It's just as loud, maybe louder. For balsa bass baits, I usually have too much thru wire harness and ballast inside to accomodate a rattle.

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Try going to page 3 of the Hard baits posts. Vodkaman does a fine job on how to make a 5 minute rattle can. This may work for you.:yay:

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I do something similar to the glass bead only I drill a hole lengthways through the bait with 8mm bit and insert a brass tube that is cut to a lenth less than the thickness of the bait. I use hardwood dowell plugs for the sides and sand them flat with the sides of the bait. Using a couple lead shot, they really rattle loud and dont seem to affect the balance a great deal. I use them on my bigger baits mostly. Brass tube can be found at RC model shops in all diameters. A friend and fellow Ky bait builder just drills his ballast weight holes deeper than necessary and adds a few shot before gluing the weight in. It does a good job and no extra steps.

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I do something similar to what BobP does. I drill a 7/32" hole where I plan on placing my dot for a shad imatation. This is best done when the bait is still flat like prior to cutting it out .

After the bait is shaped and ready to be foiled, I take .010 brass shim stock and cut out 1/4" discs with a gasket cutter (1/4"). Next I place a drinking straw (7/32") inside the hole. Wack off any excess. Super glue one of the discs (like everyone else) let it dry. I like only one lead #4 or 5 shot placed inside the straw. It seems like anymore then this and the pellets strike oneanother and not the disc. Finally, add the other disc with as little glue as possible and let it set.

Now you are ready to finish the bait. As for the dot, I take a roll of black tape that is 2/3 gone, cut it in half then I use a spent 223 casing as a punch to produce a stack of black dots. Just peel and stick.

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OK , found this rather old thread , thought , I'd add my own style to it .

My own rattles are also made of brass tubing 8 X 0,5mm , the difference to the ones previously described(couldn't open that Brazilian site) is , that they don't require extra closure lids on the flanks of the lure , because these lids are part of the tubing , that I achieve by not sawing quite through them , but leaving a ridge about 1/4 to 1/5 of the circumference , that holds the lid in place .

Opposite of that ridge I make a cut with pointed shears to separate that portion of tubing and open it up with pliers .

After cleaning up the sawchips and filling in two steelballs I'd swage the lids tightly against end of tubing , then cut and grind lid to round shape .

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Well , the final touch-up and breaking the edges is done with a fine-grade small file , the rattles should sit snugly in their bores , it's more accurate to furnish these bores on the sawed out lure blank rather than into a ready shaped blank .

For final assembly prior to painting push rattle in center of lure , probably secure with a drop of superglue and close holes either with epoxy glue or polyester car putty , after curing grind/file/sand flush to body outline .

These rattles generate a gentle , metallic "clic-clic-clic" sound , they are more suited for lures that are rigged with screweyes rather than thru-wired ones .

Greetz,diemai

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In the past I've used glass worm rattles, and the plastic rattles off of Rattle Claws, and they both worked fine.

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FYI

I use rattles in some of my Musky baits and I am very particular in the sound. P&P Magnum Worm Rattles are the loudest and best sound I have found. You can get them on ebay.

Rod

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Just thinking out loud after seeing some of the homemade brass rattles, has anyone tried using an empty .22 long rifle casing? Seems like it would help skip a step or two.

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Pikester. Yes, it has been done before, but it is still a goo idea. Here is a link to the discussion.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/hard-baits/10022-how-make-hollow-body-lure-bead-inside.html

There are quite a few discussions on rattles, all worth reading. Check out Cheeseheads glass rattle tutorial. As BobP stated, glass is good because of its resilience, it will give a good 'ping'. You really need to ask the fish which they prefer.

When I experimented with rattles, I mounted mine across rather than lengthways, as this is the direction of the movement. This has been mentioned earlier in this thread, also making a kill spot to disguise the construction (I though it was my idea, but someone got there way before me).

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Nice stuff!!!! Is there any way to use this fancy computer stuff to translate that site? Looks pretty cool.

If you have Google toolbar loaded or others on you Internet browser, Right Mouse click on the Page, slide down to Page Info and click on that, then choose Translate page to English.

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