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anchoring a metal lip

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#1 finlander


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Posted 15 February 2007 - 12:10 AM

Any ideas out there other than drilling thru a ss lip as to anchoring it in a slot??? Lexan and aluminum are easy, but this stuff is tough, going thru a cobalt bit every 2 or 3 holes. I doubt epoxy alone will keep it in place after running it into bottom/rocks for muskies. Grrrrr....

#2 rofish


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Posted 15 February 2007 - 02:20 AM

In the thread "Quick tips ..." which you can find in the second page of threads you can read some ideeas posted by BobP and myself, which could also apply for ss lips.
In addition to that, here are some more.
1) Take a kind of high steel sharp nail and try to punch holes with a hammer in the epoxy area. If you cannot make holes (this depends on the thickness of the material) you will still have a better surface for the epoxy to bond the lip to the body
2) In case you use a through lip line tie, you can make the wire longer than the lip slot. I do this as follows:
a. While the crankbait is still "square", I put it in a vice, and drill the hole for the hand twisted wire, which will be longer than the lip slot
b. taking out the drill bit, I insert it with the other end in the hole
c. usind a saw blade for metal (maybe you can tell me the correct name for it :) ) I make the lip slot just above the drill bit, using it as a guide
d. I bend the twisted wire, so that the eye will be above the lip, and the rest will be underneath, and aligned with the lip. Make the necesary adjustments (to fit the hole length, to have the right bending angle, etc)
e. in this stage, you can epoxy the wire to the lip, but this is not necessary
f. epoxy the lip and wire into the body


#3 jklett



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Posted 15 February 2007 - 10:30 PM

It's the heat that kills bits. Slow down the speed on your drill and use cutting oil. Also don't force it, let the bit do the work. Your bits will last much longer that way.

The best way to make holes in thin(.030" or thinner) stainless is a punch. McMaster-Carr has one that'll do the job. Look for part #3461A22. It says it's for mild steel only, but I've punched thousands of holes in .024" 308 at work with one. If you're working with thicker than .030", then you'll have to get one that's meant for stainless($$$).