rofish

Lips - a small discovery

16 posts in this topic

I like to clearcoat my crankbaits, unclog (or cut again the lipslot where it was already beginning with the "square" phase), seal the wood inside the lipslot, using a fine paint brush (I had nasty surprises when I didn't seal the wood inside the lipslot), and then, having 2-3 dozen of lips with me, go to the water and try different shapes and sizes of lips, to see the difference in action they can offer.

I just press the lip in the lipslot, and if it is loose, I add under the lip a small piece of plastic material cut from a soft drink bottle, so that the lip stays in place during testing.

I noticed that in most of the cases, the "classical" lips, wether trapezoidal, round or other, give the lure about the same action, provided they have about the same surface and same length.

One of the cranks had a very "nervous" wobble (quite large and quick movement left-right), which I wanted to change, but all the classical lips gave the crank the same action.

So I tried a new shape of lip, which changed the action dramatically.

Now the crank travels in an "S" line, and at the same time, it has a tight wobble.

Don't ask me how I did that, because I do not know.

You can see here the crankbait, together with some of my lip stencils, which I made out of ordinary metal sheet.

I am sure I am not the first one to think of a different shape of lip.

http://s84.photobucket.com/albums/k5/rofish_2006/rofish_2006-2/

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I don't know which one I like better, the shape of the lip or the shape of the bait.

Can't wait to try them both.

Do you seal inside the slot with wood sealer or clear coat material?

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One thing you might consider trying is placing all those various lips on a scanner to store them as a jpeg file.

After you scan them you can simply pull them back up and print them. That would preclude your having to trace them one at a time onto paper.

Also once they are stored in a file you can pull them up and resize them very easily.

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before I even looked at the bait, I figured you must have lip material extending to the sides of the head. That is definitely what will cause a bait to "hunt," as they say. Getting one to do so while still maintaining a straight general track is the trick.

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Very interesting stuff Rofish..You may want too try using elmers rubber cement as a temporary glue for your test bills.It holds well,only takes a couple minutes too set up,and a little wiggling,you can easily remove the bill without damage too you bait or bill..Nathan

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guys he is right he is not the first to do a lip like that if you are lucky enough to have seen or used a bomber speed shad u will see a real close similarity to it dont get me wrong that is an awsome crankbait and i have caught tons of fish with them so keep on cranking them out because you cant hardly find the bombers except on e-bay sometimes later guys:)

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JAWJACKER, If you are looking for Speed Shads, call Bobcat's Lake Country Tackle. 434-374-8381. He gets special runs made. Tell him Chris Poole said to call and he might only charge you 10% more!:)

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rofish, I would not call this a small discovery. I guess some others already knew about this, but it is news to me. I agree with fatfingers, the shape of the lure looks nice, and might have a LOT to do with the action.

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Thanks, guys.

Fatfingers,

To seal the wood inside the lip slot I use a plastidip solution. Take, for instance, a CD blank, which dissolves in thinner or acetone, or propionate pellets, or whatever. Almost any plastic material which dissolves in thinner/acetone will do. I put 2 layers inside the lipslot. (of course, the second one is put after the first one dried)

As to the lip stencils, I use a very simple CAD programme, which I downloaded for free from the internet. After I design a lipshape, I change the size of it by steps of 5%, saving each one. So I have lots of lip shapes and sizes on my computer, and I print them whenever I want. But I couldn't open such files using other programmes.

To make the lip stencils, I glue the printed lip to metal sheet, cut it roughly with scissors for metal, then using files and sanding tools I do the rest. It's not easy to have a perfectly cut metal stencil, but once you have it you can trace on the lip material tons of lips. To do this, I use a CD marker.

scoop10,

You are perfectly right in what you are saying. If you notice, I have some other lip stencils which are about the same shape. (let's call it half-moon shape). They all determine an "S" shape line for the crankbait when retrieved.

Nathan,

Thanks for the ideea. But you have to know that the name elmers rubber cement means nothing to me, since I cannot find such things here. Which is more, I do not speak English well, so I do not know what rubber cement is. The same goes for things like Devcon, E-tex, Lexan, etc. It,s all chinese to me :lol:

So I have to be inventive. They say need is the best inventor. Little by little, I try to cope with the marvel crankbaits I can see on TU, which is the best site for crankbait fools I have ever heard of!

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I feel for you. When I started lure building materials easily obtianed in US are like a treasure hunt for me. Elmer's Glue is PVA glue, usually used for gluing books (Stationary glue) & the yellowish type sold as carpenter's glue for wood. This should help u find them :)

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Lapala,

This isn't the same type glue..Elmers is just the "Brand" the type of glue is called rubber cement..It's more of a temporary glue.It is totally different than the white wood glue your talking about..Nathan

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I am aware of Elmer's as a brand name but always presume they were most famous as those white glues. I just looked into Elmer's website and they offer loads of adhesive product. Guess refering to a brand name will never be accurately interpreted ;)

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Very interesting piece Rofish. It would be intersting to see which action and vibration induces the most takes on the same bait using a different lip. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and incouraging me to think a bit more strongly about it

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