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Getting Devcon coated lures to "release" from rods
16 replies to this topic
Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:30 PM
i use 1/8" brass rods to hold my musky lures while painting and then use the same rod to clip into my drying wheel. my problem arises when trying to get the baits off the rod after the devcon has cured.
heating seems to work ok, but i still have some that crack or chip because the epoxy is hardened on the rod. plus the ends of the brass rods are loosing strength due to the repeated heating.
would holding the ends in boiling water heat up the rod enough to loosen the epoxy?
any tips would be greatly appreciated. i love the system i have except for getting them off at the end.
Posted 23 March 2007 - 09:58 PM
That clear coat can sure collect on the end of the "S" hooks!
I take a needlenose plies and pinch the gob of devcon and the rotate the pliers around the hook a few times to break it loose.
If its a bit sticky yet, I can usually get the lure off with a little coaxing.
For what its worth, I don't use brass rods. I cut up a thinner wire coat-hanger and bend the pieces into "S" hooks with a strong pliers.
Posted 24 March 2007 - 05:49 AM
i make thru wire baits, so i need something like the brass rod to run thru the bait in order to hold for painting and epoxying.
no screw eyes to hook s hooks into.
Posted 24 March 2007 - 08:57 AM
I would highly suggest you finish the lure before painting and top coating even in a through wire bait (put the wire in)
OR lightly coat the brass rods with a lubricant.
Posted 24 March 2007 - 05:45 PM
I would try waxing the rods before each time you use them. I do this on bushings when turning pens so the CA glue finish won't glue them to the pen tubes.
Posted 25 March 2007 - 12:15 PM
i cant assemble before eopxying. the lures i build have a stainless shaft with soldered loops on each end. the wire is soldered to brass rivets front and back, the rivets are epoxied in after clearing(or else i end up with epoxy on the rim of the rivet and have a mess when puting a soldering iron to it.
lures also have paper clip style hanger connecting hooks to main shaft. so to assemble the bait i'd have to have it done completely before coating and that would be one heck of a mess!! i'd end up with epoxy all over everyithng and the finished lure would look terrible.
(basically lures are built in the tradition of frenchy lamays le lures)
Posted 25 March 2007 - 12:18 PM
i tried both bees wax and parrafin wax, but havent been able to get it up tight to the lure body without also getting it on the nose and tail of the bait and then have trouble with epoxy holding on those parts of the bait.
i thought about coating before putting it on the rod, but then as i slide tha bait on i think it will push the wax down the rod as it goes, making it build up at one end and again "coating" that end of the bait with wax.
maybe my only recourse is to change everything, BUT it just works so nice except for the end part of it all....getting bait off rod. even then i only crack and have to recoat maybe 1 or 2 of every 10 baits, but its still frustrating!!
Posted 25 March 2007 - 02:51 PM
Send me a completed bait, I'll show ya what I mean and send it back to you top coated.
Posted 25 March 2007 - 09:54 PM
i'd take you up on it, but i know it cant be done. for example on a globe bait, there would be no way to get epoxy under the blade without getting it all over the blade, and bait cannot be assembled without first attaching blade. with the thumper style bait you'd end up with epoxy getting onto the shaft and the brass tube so the tail wouldnt spin properly.
i think you'd also end up with epoxy down into teh holes where the hook hangers come out on bottom, and that would mess up the paper clip stlye hangers. i suppose you could use styrofoam or something to fill the hole so epoxy doesnt get in, but then you'd have to mess with getting that out after epoxy dried.
maybe if one took enough time to really be careful it may work (still no way on teh globes) but then you'd be lucky to even get a full bait coated before the devcon started getting tacky(remember these are 8"-10" musky baits) and i dont feel like having $3 into each bait for epoxy...$1.50 is bad enough!!
i attached a couple pics of my lures so you know what i'm talking about.
Posted 25 March 2007 - 10:01 PM
heres a pic of my drying wheel. i'm in the process of making one that spins on a vertical axis instead of horizontal.
Posted 26 March 2007 - 09:56 AM
I use a wood dowl witha # 4 nail as my holder. The dowl holder stays with the bait till its time to install hardware. The epoxy at the rear end of the bait sticks to the nail, but that is not a problem. Thake a sharp knife and while holding the bait in your left hand, place the blade of the knife at the rear of the bait about 1/8 inch from the end of the lure and rotate the lure while holding the knife blade stationary. Make two or three passes, cutting through the epoxy to the metal holder and gently twist the bait and pull. It should come off with no problem. Thake fine sand paper and buff the remaining epoxy at the rear of the lure. Hope this helps. Joe
Posted 26 March 2007 - 11:30 AM
interesting lure. and interesting problem. perhaps inserting window glazing compound(putty) at the hole. or perhaps use Rtv silicone plugs. or perhaps hang and dry the ends in a separate step....nice lures.
Posted 26 March 2007 - 03:16 PM
flux paste will do the job the kind you use to sweat copper tubbing together.The other alternative is to give the rods a highly polished finish so theres no surface to bond to.good luck
Posted 26 March 2007 - 05:31 PM
Just brainstorming, but what if you filled a tube with one-half of the devcon epoxy. Then dip your brass rod into it. without the resin the solvent part might be enough to prevent the Devcon from getting completely cured to the rod?
Posted 26 March 2007 - 07:40 PM
Why not use thinner wire and put a kink in it before sliding the lure on? All I make are through wire lures and that's what I do. 1/16" stainless welding wire, the epoxy doesn't stick to it if you slip up and get some on it.
Posted 27 March 2007 - 12:02 AM
The wax I use is a is a polishing wax called Renaissance Wax. You wipe it on with a paper towel then polish it off with a clean towel. It will leave a thin coat of wax on the rod that should not push down the rod. Renaissance Wax is about $20 for a 7 oz. jar at most woodworking stores (Woodcraft, Rocklers, Ect.). I am using a jar I bought 5 years ago and have only used a 1/4 of it.