lurerookie

Wood Filler

9 posts in this topic

I have tried a number of different things (latex putty etc.)to fill small imperfections around belly-weights etc and am still not happy with the results when I try to sand them smoothe. It still shows through the paint. I have read that a few of you have used things like Bondo etc. and was interested in any other wisdom on the subject. Am I better off just putting a base coat of epoxy below my paint to get the surface smoothe and then another coat on top?

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Lurerookie: After I epoxy my belly weights/hook hangar assemblies in, I sand them down and look for any unevenness. I'll fill in any gaps with a good quality wood filler, and when dry, sand again with a fine 320G sandpaper. You may find some gaps or unevenness again so refill with wood filler. With careful sanding, you'll never see what you did as everything is smooth and even. Very natural looking. Oh yeah, and if you are worried about the wood filler falling out, I have not had this happen after my baits have been clearcoated and sealed for the final time.

Oldthunder
[URL="http://www.eaglelures.com"]www.eaglelures.com[/URL]
Life is too short....fish hard!!!

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Try using Plumbers Epoxy. It comes in a roll and gets mixed by cutting off a piece and rolling it until the color becomes uniform. It can be had at nearly any hardware store.
5 min set time and is very maliable until it sets up.

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I use Devcon 2 Ton to epoxy in belly weights because it levels very well. If you "wet" all the area around the hanger with epoxy and control the amount you add (use a toothpick or piece of ss wire) , the D2T will level out at the body surface or form a neat smooth mound around the hanger. When installing ballast without a hanger, I patch holes with either the white indoor Elmers wood filler (balsa) or the tan indoor/outdoor Elmers (hardwood). The indoor stuff is softer so you aren't trying to sand a hard plug without screwing up the surrounding soft balsa. I haven't had a problem with either of them showing through after sanding with 400 grit paper. One tip; after you put on the Elmers, wet the end of your finger and pat the area of the patch to make it smooth. Cuts down on sanding later.

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If elmers is mixed with very fine sawdust, it makes an excellent wood filler for the deeper jobs. Sands easy after 24hrs.

If the repair is showing through the paint, why not apply another coat. I have found that at least two coats of white are required.

Beware of using a filler that is harder than the body material. While trying to feather the joint, the abrasive paper will tend to cut the softer wood, creating another ridge for you to repair.

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I've only tried one brand of wood filler and I was not happy with the results. Maybe it was the brand of wood putty that I used but it shrunk after the bait was done and the outline of the hole showed slightly.

I've also tried mixing sawdust with elmers; that was pretty good.

I am now use Devcon2. I lay it in the hole with a small stick and mound it up a bit on the surface. I wait and see if it settles and produces a slight indentation in the cavity. If so, I put more in immediately.

After allowing it about 14 to 24 hours to dry, I hit it with the sandpaper drum using the dremel. That quickly and easily takes it down to almost perfectly flush and then I simply sand off the remainder.

To date, zero problems with detecting where the weight was placed.

Got to check out Husky's method though. He is the World's Greatest Tipmeister.:):)

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I use a two component car repair filler (Body Car Kit) ... it works OK with me for any spaces under 1sm deep ... it can be sanded easily (I use sand paper grit 400 and 800) 5 mins after and gives a smooth surface ... the surface is ideal for primer ....

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