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Dick Nite's clearcoat ?
7 replies to this topic
Posted 27 March 2007 - 12:51 PM
So, breaking the Devcon habit, I've done my first baits using Dick Nite's clearcoat.
For three baits, I dipped and put on drying wheel, then repeated two more times over the course of a couple of days. On two of the baits, I got a couple of slight ripples.
So, right now, I am trying three more baits just dipping and hanging.
Question for those who have used this finish or similar products before: Could the rippling have been caused because the drying wheel process actually led to some uneven drying/unneeded movement? Or, could there have been some problem related to how I dipped the baits?
Posted 27 March 2007 - 01:33 PM
i think it was due to spinningwheels rotation causing it ,should be ok with just dip&hang
Posted 28 March 2007 - 12:11 AM
I haven't used DN but have used Famowood Duratuff and had the same result. After experimenting, what worked for me was a single brushed coat, not multiples, dried on a lure turner for the first few minutes until the solvent evaporated. Then hung while the poly moisture cures over the next 24 hrs. When I dipped and hung them, the poly would collect at the bottom of the lure and cause a rash of bubbles there. So far, I have no complaint with the single coat poly. Although it's thinner than epoxies, it is tougher, clearer and slicker and has held up well for bass fishing.
Posted 28 March 2007 - 08:35 AM
I first tried dipping, but it flashes so quickly I couldn't control the even-ness of the coat leading to rippling as the excess begins to dry before it will drip off, or even out while revolving on the dryer. After 3 lures I abandoned dipping, and have since brushed many coats (working on my second 1/2 pint of Topcoat). Brushing allows you to keep the coating even by controlling the amount applied. It also brushes quite easily compared to an epoxy. I normally use 3 coats, applied a day apart, just to increase visual depth. I very seldom get a bubble or any other imperfection. For my money, moisture-cure urethanes such as Dicknite's are the best thing to happen to topcoats. PM me if you have any questions.
Posted 28 March 2007 - 01:59 PM
I must be the oddball, I dip, let it drip for a few seconds (not in the can!), then spin for around 30 minutes, then I set the baits on a rack, or just leave them on the spinner.
I'm doing two coats, roughly 24 hours apart.
Posted 28 March 2007 - 05:09 PM
My thoughts are that, each type of coating to be dried on the wheel, will have it's optimum rotation speed for even coverage.
As Dick Nites is thinner than epoxy, I would imagine that it requires a faster rotation.
A simple experiment could be set up to establish the best speed if the drying wheel operated via a 'motor dimmer' switch.
Posted 28 March 2007 - 05:24 PM
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to see how a few do just dipping and drying. If I have problems, I'll take Dean and Bob's advice.
Posted 28 March 2007 - 11:40 PM
where the ripples on the same axis of the wheels rotation?
I dip - put it on the drying wheel with a heat gun blasting it for 30 minutes, let cool for 1 hour and dip again. x3.
I had one issue where it reacted to the 'chome' model paint I had tried - it lifted the paint and rippled but that was driver error on my part.
Let us know how the next batch goes.