Yake Bait

Prep for 2nd coat of 2T Epoxy

10 posts in this topic

If it is totally cured, I would wipe thoroughly with alcohol, scuff the surface (I personally like 800 grit for this), and clean again with an alcohol rag. This helps eliminate amine blush residue problems. You're ready to recoat.

Dean

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I have done both with and without sanding the base Devcon coat, and have not noticed much difference either way. However, the alcohol wipe definitely will remove dust/oils, etc. from handling. Both Dean and Ranger are right that light sanding will be invisible through the second coat, so I can't argue with sanding. Might help even everything out and surely will not hurt the bond between coats.

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Hi Pete

I always rub down with 700 grade 'wet n dry' paper the stuff they use on car paint finishes) this has an alarming effect on the clarity of the finish almost obliterating the paint job underneath but the next coat of epoxy brings the clarity back and you would never know it had been sanded at all, I then clean with alcohol before the second coat. It is however not recommended to coat over a fully cured coat of epoxy because you end up with one coat on top of the other and it is never fully bonded.

philB

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This question came up a couple of years ago on a rod building site. The answer from a guy who developed finish epoxies for a living was that if you recoat within 24 hrs, the 2 coats become a single mass. Epoxy cures to close to "final hardness" in 24 hrs but may continue curing for as long as a week. That said, I lightly sand the first coat. First, it points up any goofs or high/low points. Second, you can see better where you need to brush if you're coating a matte translucent surface versus a gloss transparent surface.

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I also sand between coats only when I have an flaw of some type that I wish to remove by sanding.

I also apply the second and third coats within 24 hours, usually within 8 or 9.

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