Jump to content
Painting a Factory Lure! Step by Step PLEASE HELP!
13 replies to this topic
Posted 05 April 2007 - 01:43 AM
Anyone want to share the steps they use to do a factory bait!
I had a problem last week!! Bait peeled on me so now I am worried I have done something wrong earlier in the process! It might just be a bad mix of epoxy or the base coat! Either way I was talkin with Talley a Senior Member and he thought this would be a good thing to post! So we are lookin for..Step by Step ways to paint a factory crankbait..
1. Sand the lure
2. Wipe with Alcohol
3. Shoot with Base coat sealer
4. Paint the darn lure
5. Epoxy it
6. Fish it and pray it catches fish!!
I am talking Factory LURES ONLY!!
I just want to make sure it was a mixing issue and not something stupid I should be doing! Thanks guys!
Posted 05 April 2007 - 05:49 AM
Are u talking plastic lure? What Paint type? Are u using same brand for all layers of paint? Layers dry enough b4 2nd coat; epoxy coat? Etc etc. Lots of issues along the process that will cause adhesion problem.
If plastic lure & lacquer paints, a step that you might want look into would be to shoot a base coat of plastic adhesion promoter (example: DuPont Centari 800R, beware different formulations are made for diff plastics). The adhesion promoter will have surface prep instructions with it and which plastic it's designed for.
I do not think a step by step is suitable as there will be too many variations and it'll depend on what u are using. Maybe u can outline your steps in detail so we can identify where the issue is.
Posted 05 April 2007 - 12:13 PM
Base coat sealer? What's that, and why would you need it on plastic? I sand, shoot a color base of white acrylic, the colors and then clearcoat. Peeling can sometimes be caused by not drying the base and color coats enough before clearcoating. I flash dry with a hair dryer.
Posted 05 April 2007 - 02:21 PM
If they are plastic cranks all you should do in my opinion is:
1)clean it good and sand any rough seams
2)spray your primer coat and heatset with a hair dryer
3)spray your colors and heat set with dryer
4)after heatset and cured apply your top coat,in my case 2t devcon,and be sure to cover it real good so water cant get to your paint anywhere
5)let the epoxy cure out and then take it fishing
others may have a better way but this is how I have done them for years and had no problems at all.
Posted 05 April 2007 - 03:18 PM
It's as it's name sake, an adhesion promoter. Lucky Craft uses it on all thier plastic cranks to enhance paint adhesion to plastic. Think of it as a glue for plastic to paint.
Posted 05 April 2007 - 03:56 PM
The way the paint comes off my LC's, I'd rather not use that stuff!!
I'm assuming it's some sort of solvent that possibly 'melts' the plastic?
Posted 05 April 2007 - 06:52 PM
It's an etching primer. It "eats" itself into the surface of the plastic thus promoting better adheasion of the top layers.
Never confuse mass produced lures with hand made. We had better be taking the time to do the best we can or we are doing the hobby a gross injustice. If you are having paint issues with their lure it's probably due to lack of topcoat or inferior production standards. Have you filed a complaint with the manufacturer? If we don't they will continue to make crap. Most fabricators don't care about high durability, their main concern is increased sales.
Posted 07 April 2007 - 04:02 AM
Thanks for info guys!! Out of 75 lures I only had two peel! Just wanted to make sure I was doing it right... I was trying to find a way around sanding the lure because it hurts the look of it! Sometimes I sand off the built in scales on the plastic! Maybe I am sanding it too much!
Posted 08 April 2007 - 06:22 PM
did I miss something here???? I seen the master of paint had posted and thought I might learn a trick or two...... I have got to get me some cameras set up in Ila....
Posted 16 April 2007 - 01:30 AM
Apprently Mr. Master of Paint is a man of few words.. But I think I understand what he is saying and the master is a fan of my work Tally! Cause I believe I used the 8 step 5 hours of care line before.... Maybe I should have patent or trademarked the line so Blades couldnt say it LOL..I dont know if he is makin fun of me or was trying to help.. Either way I will take it as a helpful reply! Im still a rookie.. Maybe one day I will sell something on ebay and make a few bucks!!
Posted 16 April 2007 - 12:51 PM
nah...don't be to critical on JT. He has been doing this for years and I really did not expect him tolay it on the line. However, (like the 3 bears) JT will walk into his shop and say.... "someone has been snooping in my shop". that will be me JT....lol
Posted 16 April 2007 - 03:38 PM
Nope. My reply was not mean to be of few words. I had attached a file and obviously did not do it correctly nor did I check it later.
So lets start over again.
If the message had completly posted the comment was that you listed 6 steps in your post and I was wondering what happened to the other 2.
I was just curious and am far from a Master at anything.I was thinking I might learn somehing from the 8 steps and 5 hours of care.
Here's what I do:
Note: It depends on the factory bait. Many require more prep and many require less.
1- Scoth Brite the bait (not diving bill) or sand with 100 grit Wet ot Dry Sand Paper.
Most times Normans Gellcoat baits-Rebel Plaster of Paris R- Mann's Baits especially Stretch 20's and All Storm Baits get the Sand Paper.
2- Steel wool the bait
3- Wash with mild soap and very hot water using a small piece of Scothbrite.Allow to dry well
4- Mask the lip
5- Wipe of with Paper Towel lightly dipped in Lacquer Thinner.
Alcohol in my opinion leaves to much residue on the bait.
6- Blow Bait off with Compressed Air.
I use a blow off nozzle and about 90 PSI. I blow the bait off in front of my Paint Room exhaust fan.Lay the fully prepped bait on a Paper Towel or piece of newspaper so that you dont pick up any unwanted dust or debre.I use paper egg flats.
7- Prime with Lacquer Primer
8- Base coat White
Paint bait as you desire and of course clearcoat with anything but Devcon/Etex. LOL just kidding.
If the Paint is coming off then obviously something did not bond well.
It should be pretty easy to figure out if you take notice of how the paint peeled or if it peeled all the way back to the original bait surface.
You might have done something as simple as not sanded or scuffing the body to insure a good bond.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 10:14 PM
Etching primer vs sanding. I can see why LC would use etching primer. I doubt the LC factory wants to hire 100 "sanding guys" to sit and prep their blanks for paint. It would be absolutely archaic But most of us mud hut refinishers have to sand the blanks anyway to remove original finish so what the heck. I haven't had any problems with peeling or lifting after sanding with 400 grit and then going straight to acrylic.