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Sealing WOOD lures-something different
38 replies to this topic
Posted 15 April 2007 - 10:30 PM
Hi All -Just thought I would add my 10 cents worth here:-I have not heard of anyone else using this process. Although I have not read all threads and am new here, this may have allready been discussed somewhere.
When I was making wood lures and selling them I used to put a heap of blanks in a large jar with the sealer and "vacuum" the jar. Warning; the vacuum must be made with a "diaphram" type pump, NOT a vacuum cleaner or similar as the fumes will be drawn through the motor armature and cause ignition of the fumes, with obvious results (Flash back).
Removing the air from the jar (lowering the pressure) causes the air pressure in the wodden blanks to also lower, which draws the sealer in below the surface of the blank and giving it an excellant seal. You will need to place a piece of gauze and a wire spring (made from a coat hanger) on top to keep the blanks immersed sealer.
When doing this you will see huge amounts of air bubbling out of the blanks, which will be replaced with sealer. All holes around hook hangers, bib slots etc are filled and sealed.After the vacuum treatment (10 min) the blanks are removed and must then be left for a couple of days to air dry -fume off
A 12 volt diaphram type air bed pump makes a good one - just reverse the hose so it is sucking instead of blowing. I could marry something like that!!! pete
Posted 16 April 2007 - 01:50 AM
I had been thinking about something like what you are talking about but hadn't got around to trying to make one. Could you post a couple of photos of how your setup looks? Thanks for any help.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 05:47 AM
Hi "Palmetto Balsa"
I have not made lures for 5-6 years, so probably discarded the Vacuum setup years ago. BUT, looking at all the new products (primers /finishes) available, I may be tempted to start up again-not to mention, I am getting short of my old lures.
As I have no Vacuum to photograph, I have made a diagram for you- Hope you have "Powerpoint" - As you will see it's pretty simple to make, if you have a diaphram pump ! !
If you are doing a lot of lures, use a large pickle jar- If you are doing a couple use a jam jar or something to save on primer, don't have the primer too thick and allow a good drying time. Hope this helps you. Pete
After all that I can not upload the file, it as it is too large (max 19-20 kb). Sorry mate , I will get my computer guru onto it, we may be able to Zip it or something.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 07:30 AM
I too was thinking along these lines, when the wood sealer discussion was going on. I was thinking about introducing the vacuum by 'sucking' the air out by mouth, through a plastic pipe.
Obviously, this would depend on what the fluid is, health wise. But, it is possible to get a good vacuum without inhaling.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 07:46 AM
Another way of achieving a good penetration of the wood by the sealer is to heat the wood before dipping. Heat makes the air expand, thus a smaller quantity of air stays within the wood.
Or, I think it is Palmetto Balsa who said somewhere his balsa lures stay for hours in the sealer, with good results.
But the vacuum is a most interesting ideea. Maybe combining the 3 ways of better sealing would bring about the best results.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 07:53 AM
I like this idea. If it will draw the sealer a little deeper into the pores of the wood, I should make the balsa wood a little more durable and stronger.
If you had a good seal on the pickle jar, Would a hand powered vacuum pump work, such as the kind you use for getting the air out of hydraulic brake lines after rebuilding wheel cylinders and or calipers?
Posted 16 April 2007 - 08:16 AM
I guess you could use a vaccuum cleaner if using a sealer with no volatiles...
Posted 16 April 2007 - 02:49 PM
Not sure of the explosion possibility, but couldn-t you also use one of the cheap food vaccum sealers you find at wall-mart?
Posted 16 April 2007 - 04:39 PM
Went to -Mart today to find the Food Savers and came up empty. They have the Food Saver and containers but I think the acetone I use in the sealer will eat the container. I was looking for the jar sealer they make but Wal-Mart doesn't have it at my location.
I looked on eBay and found exactly what I was looking for and the price was right. Here is the photo. I bought one to test out.
No it isn't a Swedish pump of any sort. It is a vacuum sealer that will work on wide mouth Mason jars (the lid is made by Food Saver). It is used to reduce the air pressure in the jar and then the metal lid will suction on and you can screw the metal ring on after you remove the piece pictured. This should be the ticket. Now I will need find a Food Saver type device for less than $50 to finish the testing.
This should work because the plastic suction device is only on there while the air is being drawn out. This way the vapors from the acetone will only be around the gaskets and seals for a very short amount of time (reducing the likelihood of the acetone vapors eating away at the valves). I will be looking for the suction device but if any of you think of something other than my mouth that will work, let me hear it.
Thanks for the Idea hazmail.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 08:47 PM
When the air is coming out of the wood is it not also bringing the sealer out with it?
In my opinion pressure would be better much the same as pressure treating wood decking.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:01 PM
Hi Cheesehead- you are right to a point BUT as soon as you take the vacuum off and the blanks are under the surface of the sealer, the sealer is drawn in to the wood, replacing the lost air (because of the pressure differential) . Sorry but I should have mentioned this in original post. pete
Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:09 PM
Yep any sort of pump will do as long as it is not drawing fumes through an electric motor ( armature). The vacuum does not have to be great to see results, in fact if too much you may implode/crush the container. Once the desired vaccuum is reached, a one way valve in the hose line would be handy also, so the vacuum is held. Sorry about not adding all this in original post, (familiarity breeds contempt! !) . Pete
Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:10 PM
Maybe it is bringing the air out and the sealer too, but with the lures submerged in the sealer, I would think that the air having been sucked out of the wood pores before the actual sealing of them would cause the atmospheric pressure to force the sealer deeper into the pores of the wood when you took the negative pressure away. This Hill Billy is going to try it.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:13 PM
Hmm, you just reinforced my thoughts while I was writing them.
Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:21 PM
Basically doing the same thing, great idea though-Only difference I can see is, with the vacuum, blanks can be left there for minutes/hours, to remove as much air as possible, but a warmed blank would stop "gassing off" as soon as the temperature equalised-- Great idea though and no expense except for heating-virtually carbon free !! like it.pete
Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:26 PM
Yeah, we are on the same wave now. Just be carefull with electric motors and paint fumes (This goes for exhaust fans, spray booths too). I have been a firefighter for 30 yrs and have seen a few go up around here, including commercial Car paint booths, not pretty. pete
Posted 16 April 2007 - 09:28 PM
It works well. I have an air matress diaphram pump at home I have used to do this along with remove bubbles from molding material. Easiest way for you DIY guys is make a water aspirator set up and no need to worry about volatiles.
Posted 17 April 2007 - 12:56 AM
I think that the sealer is drawn into the wood not only by the difference in pressure, but also by capilarity. Also, the thinner the sealer, the deeper it penetrates.
Posted 17 April 2007 - 03:07 AM
Finally have a drawing that I can load- hope this helps. Sorry about the quality, you may have to blow it up. Pete
Posted 17 April 2007 - 05:55 AM
Thanks Hazmail, I will use the hand powered vacuum pump.