Whiz Jig

Coating with clear Dixie cups.

23 posts in this topic

i tried the Solo cups in lacquer thinner with no luck. the cups did not dissolve. let them sit all day, still nothing. i went to walmart and got the cheapest cup they sell, Chinet brand and they dissolved with no problem. when using a jar with a screw on lid keep the jar mouth and the lid cleaned off. excess coating will glue the lid to the jar and you won't get it off.

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The thinner must be virgin laquer thinner otherwise you´ll just end up with a blob on the bottom .If you use the pellets i got you can use acetone to disolve the pellets& acetone will make the plastic cure harder ...

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Yes, use acetone! Companies put various solvents in a can and call it lacquer thinner. The present mix of the popular brand Klean Strip is mostly denatured alcohol which is lousy for disolving plastic or propionate. Acetone works like a charm and dries faster too.

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Great stuff, I have just started using this Propionate, shame it can't be used as a finish coat.pete

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it can be used as topcoat you´ll only have to match &heatset the paint you use pure prop can cause colors to bleed

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Okay gotcha. I'm finding most of this stuff is just personal preference. Guess I will just have to start digging in to come up with my own favorites.

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Swede + -I dipped a lure in Prop and of course the paint (W/Base acrylic) ran everywhere. Can you tell me what paints are compatable with Prop/acetone top coat - If any?? - Pete

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Once you have painted your lure, before you put your topcoat on, you use some sort of heat to 'heatset' your paint job. You can thank Swede for this tip, you can do this simply with a hairdryer.

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Personally, I don't use prop pellets for clearcoating because I feel epoxy or water cured polyurethane are clearer and more durable. But it's great for waterproofing a lure before you paint it and multiple coats of prop are a very good way to reinforce soft balsa baits. After messing up many paint jobs, I now flash dry each shot of acrylic latex paint with a hair dryer before moving on to the next color. That way, no problems with touchng the paint, etc while painting...plus, when you're finished, you can clearcoat immediately.

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Yeah I agree with BOB!!! The only thing I use dixie cups for.. well the only two things I use dixie cups for.. wait.. well the only three things I use dixie cups for is..

1. Spitting my skoal in them

2. Washing out my mouth after I brush my teeth to clean the skoal out

3. Putting epoxy in them so I can mix it up and clear coat a lure.

I cant think of anymore uses for a Dixie cup! HEY THIS COULD BE A POST!!! NAME ALL THE USES OF A DIXIE CUP!!! SEE HOW MANY WE CAN COME UP WITH!!! Bob your a senior here.. you start it.. I will get it going by ticking someone off..

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Very informative post Rookie !!!

Why didnt you post it in The Docks instead cause thats where it belongs

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move it to the docks.. Wasnt trying to tick anyone off..it was late friday night and I was slap happy on epoxy and paint.. ALL OF US HAVE BEEN THEIR

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I searched online for propionate and founfd nothing but testosterone (sp?) related results. I think I'll try to use polystyrene pellets (not foam) when I get to that stage of making my first bait.

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If you Google Propionate Wood Sealer and hit I'm Feeling Lucky it will take you right to what you are looking for.

Good luck

Try Yahoo if you want. Its the first 2 hits on that one.

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Whteglve, you may find more on propionate if you google cellulose propionate. It makes a good waterproof undercoating and is also good for reinforcing balsa baits with multiple dips (I use 7-B). I haven't tried anything else but sometimes I think we make things more complicated than necessary. For hardwood baits, anything that keeps the wood grain from rising when hit with a water based paint is OK, IMO. You're gonna coat the bait with a tough waterproof clearcoat later anyway. The same thing goes for balsa BUT I think prop makes a harder, smoother reinforcing undercoating than epoxy on soft balsa. I like the prop pellets because they are easy to use. Disolve some in acetone and do multiple dips with a few minutes between dips. When I run out of the ones I got from Swede (they do last a long time however), I'll try disolving some of the translucent 3 oz SOLO cups in acetone to see how it works, just for laughs. I won't use prop or other "homebrew" coatings for clearcoating baits. I just don't think it's as durable or or has the clarity of either epoxy or water cured polyurethane like Dicknite Lurecoat.

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