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Screw eyes and top coat dipping question
15 replies to this topic
Posted 20 May 2007 - 02:41 PM
I'm wondering if anyone might have a tip to pass along with respect to the method of dipping the lure into a top coat formula and keeping the screw eyes from getting filled in.
I have dipped my 1st set of lures into Envirotek and my next batch will be dipped into Nu-Lustre 55 (we don't get devcon here in Canada) and I had to put in a great deal of effort to clear up and open up the screw eyes after it had cured.
Is there a tip on how to either avoid the screw eyes getting all clogged up or perhaps even minimizing the issue? If this continues I may have to resort to brushing on the clear coat, which I hopefully can avoid.
Thanks in advance.
Posted 20 May 2007 - 04:59 PM
either dip or brush on vaseline on the screweyes and use a needlenose pliar to clean them out by twisting jaws back&forth
Posted 20 May 2007 - 05:53 PM
I actually like to get epoxy on the hook hangers since it guarantees no leakage into the bait. When the finish cures, zip it out with a piece of .040" ss wire (like from an old buzz bait) or a small drill bit chucked into a Dremel tool. It's fast and does a neat job, plus no worries about pulling epoxy off of the lure body or cutting yourself with an Xacto knife.
Posted 20 May 2007 - 07:12 PM
The vaseline idea has struck a cord with me.
I just finished cleaning out the eyes after sealing the wood with the laquer thinner/plastic mix (which works great) from this mornings batch.
Maybe I should just leave the plastic, might help with the top coat.
And you are correct, I was using an Xacto knife.
Posted 20 May 2007 - 09:10 PM
BobP, you answered before I could. My only suggestion would be that you could use a standard finish nail instead of the buzz wire. If the head of the nail gets in the way, chop it off with snips.
Posted 21 May 2007 - 06:34 AM
why not clear coat then assemble your lures. we use joiner wires on jointed baits. pull them out them assemble your lure, using a little epoxy in the screw holes.. clening hardened epoxy is a pain ,no doubt
Posted 21 May 2007 - 10:33 PM
Woodie, you're obviously neater with epoxy than I I always figure that if a little is good, too much is even better! I started using a Dremel when I built some jointed baits and had to get epoxy out of the hard-to-reach wire hinges. It was easy with a Dremel. Now, I join the segments after color basecoating and purposely get epoxy on the wire joint so it keeps the bait stiff while I paint and clearcoat it.
Posted 22 May 2007 - 09:03 PM
BobP, depending on the wood, you could also temporarily "pin" the two pieces in place with something like a sewing needle that is sharpened on both ends. It would leave a very small indentation when removed that should be easy to cover up and seal with your topcoat. Just a thought, but I do agree that with a segmented bait joined by wire, you would really want that extra seal around the joint.
Posted 23 May 2007 - 09:35 PM
I put them in ahead of time and then drill them out. Drilling must then be followed by some additional work with the leatherman.....it's a hassle but it does leave the bait totally sealed. I will add tho that I used to do it like Woodie suggested and didn't have any problems at all.
Posted 23 May 2007 - 09:56 PM
My apologies, I really don't mean to "hog" the thread, but just thought of something else. While clearing cured epoxy or other substance from the line tie eye, use extra caution. I recommend whoever wants to do it that way to buy a pair of round nose pliers. This will tend to scuff up the metal on the eye much less. I have seen a couple of baits that wanted to snap the line when tied on. Upon further inspection discovered that the culprit was a small burr of metal that had gone undetected. That little sliver was enough to slice the line under pressure.
Posted 24 May 2007 - 02:52 AM
you can also use open screweyes &let epoxy go up the stem abit
Posted 24 May 2007 - 11:43 AM
I am definitly not the neatest person when it comes to clearing...I let it flow over and around the eyelets and tie and use a dremel with a wire wheel to clean it off. Very neat and even polishes the hanger.
Posted 29 May 2007 - 05:45 AM
Your deremel wire wheel works like a charm. You've got to be carefull not to knick the lure and the screw eyes cannot be too tight to the body but it removes most of the clear coat and yes it makes the eye screw look polished too.
This method does leave the center of the eye screw filled. I couldn't find anything to put into my dremel to drill out the remaining clear coat but I'll work on it.
Posted 01 June 2007 - 01:02 AM
I bought a box of dremel bits, in there was a tapered file bit. The most useful bit in the box.
Posted 04 June 2007 - 11:22 PM
I Use Brass Eye Screws On The Plugs I Make. Then I Use A Hook Or File To Cleanout And Smoothout The Holes ( The Brass Files Smoother And Doesnt Cut As Much,,,, I Lost Alot Of Countdown Rapalas A Few Weeks Ago Due To Their Sharp Line Ties.. I Don't Use The Splitring That Comes With The Lure That Cuts The Line Worse Than Anything !!!! What Do You Want From A $7.00 Lure ??
Posted 07 June 2007 - 04:43 PM
I just tske a small finish nail and push it out or my exacto knife and run it around the inside of the hole. I don't mind using the knife since I use stainless wire.
Yes you do have to be very careful getting too close to the bait or you will take off some of the clear. After a little practice you will feel comfortable.Best thing is ....it's quick....a little messy but quick