borderbasser

swimbait screw eye question

13 posts in this topic

What do you guys who are in the know, think about using cotter pins for the joints when epoxied in? I tried some about 3/4" long and they seem pretty stout when I tried to pull the bait apart after the epoxy cured for a day. I really don't want to fool with through-wire construction and I know screw eyes would probably be better, but I couldn't find any screw eyes at the hardware store that were small enough and still had a favorable size screw. I know I can order what I need, but it sure is nice to pick something up localy while I'm learning how to build these baits. Also, the swimbaits will be used for LM Bass mostly under 10 lbs. Thanks for any thoughts on this.

TJ

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I have looked in all local hardware stores for screw eyes like - menards, home depot, ace, etc... The only place I can get the correct ones is ordering them online. At the hardware stores, if you want a longer screw - the eye is going to be bigger, and the gauge of screw eye is going to be a lot thicker too.

Only other place I would think you might find them is at a specialty shop / bait shop that sells other lure building and tackle building supplies.

I really like the idea of the through-wire and am very impressed with the final results I have seen here in the gallery. I'm looking forward to giving this a try.

Does anyone know of good local suppliers of wire for this? I am thinking of just getting a 1/4 lb coil of stainless steel from stamina in the .045" size for pike and muskie baits. Would prefer to get it at the store though...

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Does anyone know of good local suppliers of wire for this? I am thinking of just getting a 1/4 lb coil of stainless steel from stamina in the .045" size for pike and muskie baits. Would prefer to get it at the store though...

Go to your local welders supply house. They sell #308 SS welding rods in 3 foot lengths by the pound. 1/16 size(.0625) for big plugs, the next size under(.045) for smaller.

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If the pins are stainless steel, I don't see a problem. An option you might try is making eyes out of stainless leader wire you can find at many bait stores. I use 190 lb test .029" Malin Hard Wire leader wire that comes in a 42 ft envelope in either bright stainless or stealth coffee. Bend a piece around a nail, grab the ends with visegrips and twist. Makes a secure hook hanger any length you want. Actually, I clamp a drill bit in one visegrip, clamp the visegrip in a bench vise and use a second visegrip to twist the ends. You can customize the size of your eyes by choosing different drill bits.

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Use the search feature and look up "making screw eyes". There is alot of information there that could help you make up your mind. My choice for musky baits is .092 stainless steel screw eyes, for everything else I make my own out of stainless steel safety wire which is easy to get anywhere. I epoxy everything in and the bait will break before the screw eye comes out.

Rod

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So you don't think that just glueing in cotter pins would be something I should worry over? I've fooled around with twisting wire, and although I do think that is probably better, it has been difficult to make hinges using that method for a jointed bait...or at least with the eyes being small enough to have a finished product with a small gap between the joints. I do believe however that I will use that method for the hook and line tie eyes. I guess I am looking for someone to say, "yeah man, don't wory about those cotter pins, you won't pull them out" LOL!

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Go to your local welders supply house. They sell #308 SS welding rods in 3 foot lengths by the pound. 1/16 size(.0625) for big plugs, the next size under(.045) for smaller.

Bingo! That's what I am working with now and it seems to be a solid match for the job!

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So you don't think that just glueing in cotter pins would be something I should worry over? I've fooled around with twisting wire, and although I do think that is probably better, it has been difficult to make hinges using that method for a jointed bait...or at least with the eyes being small enough to have a finished product with a small gap between the joints. I do believe however that I will use that method for the hook and line tie eyes. I guess I am looking for someone to say, "yeah man, don't wory about those cotter pins, you won't pull them out" LOL!

Oh yea, it would be plenty strong enough. I have used cotter pins in the past and had no concern about them at all. You might overdrill the hole just a tad and make sure the pin is surrounded by epoxy, it will never come out. If you don't believe it, take a spare piece of wood, glue one in, let it set up and then try to pull it out.....you won't get it out.

jed v.

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Thanks guys for the suggestions. Riverman, that was just the response I was hoping for! I took my bait and tried to pull it apart with all the muscle I could musterand could not pull it apart, but you never can tell about real world situations. Thanks again guys.

TJ

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"Real world" would actually put far less pressure on the joint than what you did while pulling on it. You said the lure would be used for bass........the world record bass is somewhere around 20 pds. If you were to hook this fish, the combination of buoyancy and a properly set drag would would probably result in less than 10 pounds of pressure on the lure at any one time. And, the fish would pull one way then another, then another, not just in one direction like you did in your test. Once the fish was close you either lip him or net him but I'm willing to bet you could easily lift the new world record bass directly out of the water by your lure without any problem. The lip of the fish would tear out before the pins would pull free.

jed v.

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Yep, the only thing you would worry about is water penetration that could split or otherwise ruin the bait. This will destroy the lure before a pullout ever could. Just make sure your topcoat is flawless and you should be set for anything that could hit your bait. Unless maybe you hook an alligator.

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Borderbasser, create a barb at the end of the pin that is inserted, tap a partial hole, apply epoxy to the pin and barb, push the pin in all the way, give it a twist inside the lure body...the barb will grab a "fresh" solid piece of wood internally,...let her cure and you're good to go.

Peace,

K

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In deadweight lifting tests on bass rods, the guides begin to come off the blank at around 12 lbs. Not saying that there couldn't be instantaneous stress greater than 12 lb on a lure when fighting a fish but it does give you some idea of what is required to keep baits together. Borderbasser, I solve the problem of too much space between segments by cutting a small slot across the hole drilled to accept the screw joints. If I want less gap, I can easily push the eye of the screw down into the slot when gluing the segments together. I use a fiber reinforced Dremel cutting disk that has been worn down to about 1/2" to cut the slots. This works fine when using .029" stainless leader wire for screws. Don't know how it will work with the much thicker screw eyes, but if necessary, you could drill in a dimple at the hole to recess those.

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