Husky

For silicone mold makers. (ATTN MUSKY DAN)

11 posts in this topic

Due to the high cost of silicone, I was forced (OK, I'm cheap) to come up with an alternative to using the high priced RTV, exclusively.

Here's how you can double or triple or even quadruple your out put with no drop off in quality, for a very small price.

Set your model in the mold as usual, but only mix enough of the good stuff to put a skim coat over the entire lure and base.

While it is setting, Mix some 100% Silicone Sealant (DAP or WM Clear All Purpose Silicone sealant, $2.37 for 10 0z) and water. It will set in under 1 hour. After it sets, dice it up into tiny pieces. This can be done at any time.

Once the RTV Sil has set up on your model, Mix a small batch more of the RTV. BTW,Those mixing cups Fatfingers is so fond of will come in handy for that. Spread a thin coat onto the first coat then, fill the mold, nearly to the top, with the Sealant tid bits, then pour the remainder of the RTV over them until the tidbits are covered. It will self level and encase ALL the little pieces and when it has cured You wouldn't be able to tell the difference between it and a 100% RTV Silicone mold.

I hope that helps some of you guys. Feed back welcomed!

Husky

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Also, the sealant can be laid out in small beads on a smooth surface, and let them cure out the conventional way. It'll take longer to cure, but you'll have a neat 1/4" bead to work with and you can squeeze out the whole tube at one time. They may be a bit harder that way.

Husky

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Great idea! Ok, since you are on a roll Husky, tell me on a two-part mold how to shorten the process of burying half the original model in clay? It takes me forever to get the model half buried in clay, add all the keys, and then build a box around it! I know you can use a slip mold but I have found the slip molds deform some of my larger lures I have experimented with.

jed

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Great idea! Ok, since you are on a roll Husky, tell me on a two-part mold how to shorten the process of burying half the original model in clay? It takes me forever to get the model half buried in clay, add all the keys, and then build a box around it! I know you can use a slip mold but I have found the slip molds deform some of my larger lures I have experimented with.

jed

Ok, but don't get angry because you didn't think of it on your own.;) As you probably are using standard size wood, as I do, just find a piece of balsa that is exactly 1/2 the thickness, trace the silhouette onto the balsa and cut it out, making the cut about 1/32 over. Now get some leggos. and make a "box" to fit around the model, with some excess. You can get the box nearly perfect in size if you play with the different sized pieces. It's childs' play. Then get 2 flathead nails and place then into the balsa where they will be cast into the mold but not interferring with pouring gates. Cut the nails so that the head is appx the height of the lure.

Place your model into the cavity, use clay to fill the 1/32" gap, place your nails, put a bead of clay around the inside of the leggo box's bottom and position it firmly on the balsa surface.

Now you're ready to make your skim coat pour providing you have reliefs for hangers and ties in place. Follow direction above.

When side one is done, flip the box over and remove the balsa and clean off the clay from the model. Push side one down so that the uncovered side of the model and the nails are pointed up and that side one is resting on a flat surface. (I use a tray so I can move it all w/o disturbing anything.) Build up the leggos box for side two. Use a Petroleum Jelly as a MR on the silicone and the nails. Repeat what you did with side one.

The nails (I know you were waiting for this) will be your locators instead of those keys you were so fond of. The halves will align perfrectly.

I will post more as well as pictures, tomorrow, when I sober up!:)

How's that, so far?

Husky

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Jed, the Pictures, as promised.

The small brads on the tie and hanger locations are cast in so the wire harness won't move (The nose one needs to be adjusted away from the bait, like the other two). The locator nails are added right before pouring. They will go through the whole thickness of the balsa.

The bottom pic shows the locators in a Bondo Jig Mold.

DSCF0001-3.jpg

DSCF0002-3.jpg

Baittail.jpg

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Great idea!! This should save me a bunch of time on the next one, sick of using the clay! Thanks Husky.

Jed V.

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WOW!!!Very nice idea!!!I like it a lot!!!!Will try that for my next mold for sure!!!!Thank's a lot Husky for sharing all those awesome ideas!!!That's why that place is so special!!!cheers.Dan

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Are you guys talking about pouring hard plastic for baits?

These molds are for casting either, various resin, 0r expanding urethane foam.

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Also, the sealant can be laid out in small beads on a smooth surface, and let them cure out the conventional way. It'll take longer to cure, but you'll have a neat 1/4" bead to work with and you can squeeze out the whole tube at one time. They may be a bit harder that way.

Husky

End Results!

Please post your experiences, for the board.

TIA,

Mike O

1-1.jpg

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Jed, the Pictures, as promised.

The small brads on the tie and hanger locations are cast in so the wire harness won't move (The nose one needs to be adjusted away from the bait, like the other two). The locator nails are added right before pouring. They will go through the whole thickness of the balsa.

The bottom pic shows the locators in a Bondo Jig Mold.

DSCF0001-3.jpg

DSCF0002-3.jpg

Baittail.jpg

Where I show the Model in The Balsa wood, I'd like to add that you can put in "Keys" by heating the rounded end of a drill bit and burning a few on to assure perfect alignment.

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