ernel

3 from the wheel

9 posts in this topic

Here are a few minnows that I worked on over the last few days. What do ya'll think. Sorry for the picture quality, but I had to use my cell phone to take the pics.

Rainbow Trout.jpg

Blue Rainbow.jpg

Olive Gold Shiner.jpg

Rainbow Trout.jpg

Blue Rainbow.jpg

Olive Gold Shiner.jpg

Rainbow Trout.jpg

Blue Rainbow.jpg

Olive Gold Shiner.jpg

Rainbow Trout.jpg

Blue Rainbow.jpg

Olive Gold Shiner.jpg

Rainbow Trout.jpg

Blue Rainbow.jpg

Olive Gold Shiner.jpg

Rainbow Trout.jpg

Blue Rainbow.jpg

Olive Gold Shiner.jpg

Rainbow Trout.jpg

Blue Rainbow.jpg

Olive Gold Shiner.jpg

2091_thumb.attach

2092_thumb.attach

2093_thumb.attach

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Very nice, hope they swim as good as they look.

Some of my earlier minnows I have made have seen action and faired well. Others have not been fish catchers due to lip problems, and have been turned into key chains. Thanks for compliment.

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Wish I could paint worth a )()&()*&)(&()*& I'd try cranks but I just don't have the talent for it.

Fatman

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they're looking good partner!

I see you are doing thru wire. I've done a few myself but have run into problems when installing the lip which I put in place after painting/devcon. How do you do your lips? I mean in what stage of the lure building process.

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they're looking good partner!

I see you are doing thru wire. I've done a few myself but have run into problems when installing the lip which I put in place after painting/devcon. How do you do your lips? I mean in what stage of the lure building process.

I put the lip in last. I however am actually using laminate balsa to basswood. By having the center of the plug made from basswood, I do not have to use a through wire. I just make hook hangers that have a pronounced spiral to them so the 5 minute Devcon has something to hold onto. The through wire method may be stronger, but I am only fishing for bass and a few walleye every now and then. I know that they will hold up to a 4lb large mouth and a 3.5lb walleye so far.

Here is the link to the Hoosierdaddy's web site where I got my info from:

http://home.mchsi.com/~djaroscak/buildinglure.html#indexpage

I just use the same process for different bodies.

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Wish I could paint worth a )()&()*&)(&()*& I'd try cranks but I just don't have the talent for it.

Fatman

I actually came to this site to get information on making jigs and spinnerbaits. I saw the work that was being done on the crankbaits and fell in awe. If I remember correctly, there was on (a craw pattern with a 3 shape to it) that really caught my eye. To date, I have yet to make my first spinnerbait or jig. ;)

No disrespect meant to anybody, so I will not name names.

All it takes is a little patience a few mess ups, and it will come in time. Shorter than you think. There is so much knowledge on this board that a begginer is well beyond the learning curve from the get go.

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thanks Ernel! I really like the idea for the laminated balsa/basswood (thanks hoosierdaddy).

here's one of mine, I just finished. as you can see the thru wire is a little twisted. I had a heck of a time putting the lip in because it's a one piece wire. if anyone has a better way on installing the lip on a thru wire, i'd sure love to hear it!

http://www.tackleunderground.com/photos/index.php?n=896

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Most split the lure, instal the wire then glue the halves together. I can see how this method would give you problems as the lip would go in after the wire.

The method that I use on my prototypes is to cut a slot down the belly (or the back) of the shaped body using a thick cutting disk in a drill (dremel). This allows you to fit the lip first. Form the eye, thread the wire through the lip. Check the length and form the tail eye (and belly). Tuck the wire into the slot and hold in place with superglue. Fill the slot with wood filler or epoxy.

The wire can be pushed deeper to allow for fitting the ballast. But there are other ways of solving the ballast problem. Cut a slot in the ballast or fit the ballast as a flat lead plate, recessed to hide it.

For a professional finish, effort must be invested to hide the slot but this is not a huge problem. I have used this method from the start and have had no problems. The tricky part is forming the rear eye as when the wire is twisted, the length shortens. But it is not necessary to twist the wire, just bend it over about an inch. It will never pull out.

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