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Matt Becker

Tubes...I need to make some

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Just one more question. After view bojon's great training movie and all the pictures and descriptions, here is my question. In the small rods, is the ends, not connected to the clothes hanger, sealed like the large copper rod or is it left open/hollow?

I can not wait to try bojon's technique. I have been wanting to make tubes for a long time.

Thanks for sharing your information.:worship:

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The wire handle is attached to the solid aluminum rod by drillig a hole in one end then glueing the wire handle into that end using JB weld.The most important thing is to MAKE SURE you have a 90 degree bend.You can use aluminum,brass,any metal tube in the small sizes and seal one end and bend the whole thing in a 90 deg,or insert the wire handle and glue it in with JB weld also.I use paper to stuff the ends for about a 1/4 inch before glueing.Don't use JB weld KWICK,use the origanal formula.I have used a lot of different dipping rods,but have settled on this list:Really small sizes use wire,Next size alum tube,with ends sealed,and the most common,alum rod,When I get to the larger sizes I use copper tubing like they use for plumbing.This is for one inch or larger dia tubes.One guy I helped was going to make 2 1/2 inch dia tubes,and we decided that electrical conduit would work.I don't know if he was successful.I never heard.

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Willy; what your referring to is glider weights and they are the way to go. They give the tube a great spiralling fall and make the bait about 99% snagless and weedless. I use a heavier style weight for my flipp'n and maybe snag once in a day. These weights also make it easy to skip a bait a mile back under docks ect. Anyone who has not given these weights a try should. They are the cats meow!

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I started fishing the fat gitzit back when they first came out,and started making my own tubes soon after.I use tube lures almost exclusively.I doubt if you can fish them wrong and I have tried most methods of fishing the tube,but most are rigged with the jig as you commented.I use the egg shaped head 1/8 oz most of the time.these are molded on Eagle Claw L571 size 1 LASER SHARP hook.The mold is a Do-it model EGJ-6-A I find that the drop and feel of this head to be just right.Using 6 lb Fireline with a good spinnig rod the feel is excellent. I make my own tubes in a bunch of different sizes 1/16 to one inch in diameter,and use the 5/8 jig head at the heavest.

You also can use a floating jig to foat it behind a sinker set up tipped with a piece of ightcrawler,or a piece of sucker.

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BASSNRANDY,The glider sounds good.I will have to give it a try.Will it fit into a 1/4 inch dia. hollow of the tube,or will it distort the outline?I am a firm beliver that the weight balance of the jig makes a big difference on how the the tube falls.

Has any of the members I instructed on tube making made any tubes???

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Randy by the 'glider weight' do you mean like a texas rig? I think I used a jighead like Bojon is talking about, molded with a hook in the weight head. But I'd love to know what you are talking about.

Bojon, I saw you and others make tubes of many sizes, some with a diameter very wide, do you ude a jighead that is the same diameter?

I think I even have seen tubes that are almost an inch wide. I've never seen a jighead that big, and assume it would be very heavy. Do you use a standard size jighead inside the big tube and let the tube squeeze around the weight underwater?

I fish salt water and would love to make a very big tube, or at least a very long one.

Thanks guys,

Willy

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Willy,

Yes I do make some large tubes,the largest was was 8 1/2 inches long by 1 inch inside dia.They were a thick hard pour loaded with salt.A friend in Buffalo made some for himself and sent me the pictures of the muskies he was catching.WOW!! Big fish.I planed on using the large tubes jigging for large lake trout,but haven't tried it as yet.I used a one inch dowel with a hollow center, filled with lead,and a heavy stainless steel wire shaped like the 90 deg bend of a jig hook that was attached to a heavy,long shank hook.A real pain to make but at the same time fun.

When I use larger tubes,like up to 1/2 in dia.,I try to use the same size,1/8 th oz egghead with a larger hook.I use short fat tubes most of the time.A couple of years ago the 2 5/8 in by 1/2 dia was the real killer in local waters.This year you can't buy a fish on it.It is hard to get a good balance ratio of 60% body 40% tail when you go so short and fat.They just don't look right.But they do get some nice fish at times.

BASSNRANDY Is there a mold for what you call a glider weight?

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I'm getting ready to start making some tubes from my left over used plastics baits and you have the easiest idea I've seen. I have one question is the end of your rod where the tube head is made just squared off and the round part of the head is made as the plastic runs off or is the rod made round ? great job on the video.

Thanks

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The ends are cut square on most of my dipping rods,but some of my large ones(1/2 inch and over) are slightly rounded.I think the square ends do best,because the rounded tends to cool too pointed for my liking.Remember the rounded end is created by the excess plastic flowing downward as it cools.A couple of halpful hints is to dip quickly,and sometimes I move the rod slightly sideways when it is sumerged,I started doing this to help to keep the salt and glittein suspension,and this swirling action seems to make a better tube.Also when you prepar the plastic in the micro wave,put in a wooden craft stick,and leave it in the Pyrex cup all thru the cycle,even when the plastic is transfered to the heating pan on the hot plate.I use a very low heat on the hot plate,and I keep the stick in the plastic to stir with and act as a heat sink.You will know that the heat is too high as soon as you see the first wisp of smoke,vapor ,rising.It is very rare this happens at the temp I dip.If you use the same stick thruout the dipping process you will see that the end of the stick takes on a darkened color.I used to use a brass rod to stir in the pan,or whatever stick was handy.This rod in the plastic is what turned me on to dipping a tube,because when I pulled it out of the plastic and cooled it,and pulled the hardened tube shaped waste.The light bulb went on..Remember to dip quick,and move the rod to the cooling positon quickly.You will know you are doing it right when you will see a trail of plastic from pot to the 90 deg cooling platform.This waste will look like spider web of plastic(accordingly to the neihbor kid).Remember all of this waste should be falling from the dipped tube from pot to cooling ,can be reclaimed by removing it from the wax paper you placed under the work area.There is very little waste when using this process.REMEMBER the more plastic that flows to the downward side of the rod,the rounder and neater the the tube front end will be.The whole process from tube dip to cooling platform should take no more than than three seconds.Also the tubes will cool quickly and when doing small lots they can be removed without too much wasted time.

Sorry about the long post.

Bojon

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Bojon:

Just a question about that wooden "stick".. It doesn't cause bubbles in your plastic?

Thanks for all the info on this post from all as I actually dipped a few tubes for a tournament I will be fishing this coming weekend. Seems they are as nice as anything I have gotten from BPS!!

Jim

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The stick will not cause bubbles in the Pyrex cup that will LAST.I pour the plastic down the stick into the dipping pan,and when I make a few slow stiring motions all the bubbles will vanish.I use purchaced craft sticks that are very dry to start with,and during the Micro Wave heating process I use a gentle stirring motion through the plastic and the stick stays in the cup.I think this drives out the remaining moisture.There will be bubbles in the plastic before you pour down the stick into the pan.They will go away with a GENTLE stirring.Bubbles have never been a problem.For a while I was trying to dip tubes with bubbles in them,this was very hard to do.Don't use a stick from the back yard,I doubt if it would work,this is why I used a brass rod for awile.The thin craft stick is the way to go.I think the heatsink action of the stick is important(sorry I don't know why).If you get bubbles you probably have moisture in the stick,so leave it in the corner of the dipping pan.You will be using a very low temp in the pot.My setting on the hot plate is barely on warm.I use a Munsey Buffet Range that I got at Wal Mart ,years ago.

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Go to the post above by redgr8r dated July 12 2007 to get a idea of what I'm talking about.This short movie will explain a lot.The fist part of the movie shows a large tube being dipped,this was done in cool water to show how.DON'T DARE PUT YOUR HAD UNDER A PLASTIC COVERED TUBE.The dripping will burn you.

I'm sorry if I haven't been able to answer all your questions and e-mails,I'm some what swamped.I type with one finger,and slow as all get out. :(

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I use a paper plug and JB WELD for my smaller aluminum tube rods,but the large one you are talking about uses copper pipe plugs.I'm not sure they are still available,but you could use wooden plugs on both ends (not too thick or too deep),and come up with the same.Use JB WELD for the inserts,but the end of the tube would be Epoxy Putty shaped,then when cured ground down to final contour using a Dremel tool, or sand parer.Make sure that all wood surfaces are coated with JB WELD.Use your own judgement here.It is not too big of a challenge.

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