ernel

Line tie size and type?

10 posts in this topic

I have been making all of my cranks with a small loop for the line tie untill recently. (About the size of a large brad nail) Now they are the size of a 12 penny nail. I have also been using a different method for forming the wire. Instead of using the twisting method like in the tutotials, I have been sending two seperate and straight ends up the lip to the lure body, with a u shape on the lip top. Doing this meant that I had to drill two holes in the lip instead of one.

I recently tried the twisted method with only one small hole in the lip, and the lures have had no set method or track to the way they are running. (Not in a good way either.) I am drilling the hole in what would be the center location of my previous design, (7mm back of center) and cannot get the lures to run true. Can the line tie being larger be the problem? (IE too large) Or would the line tie only haveing one locatoin that the wire is passing through be more the likley suspect meaning I need to do a redesign?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've tried both lip wire methods and never had a difference regarding the lure's ability to track straight, if the wire is anchored solid. To me, the twisted wire method is easier, neater, and more exact. I cut a slot in the back of the lip and fold the wire over the top, crimping it down for added stability (pls note: the wire is soft stainless steel or brass, not hard stainless). JMHO, the twisted tie with one hole allows you to move the line tie forward/back a bit to fine tune the lure's action if needed. Don't know how big a 12 penny nail is, but I usually bend my line ties so they are 2-3 mm ID.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bob, the 12 penny nail gives the line tie close to a 4-5 mm id. I think this may be causing the "pull point" to get too far away from the lip. Then it is allowing the lure to track too much to one side or the other, causing a many blow out so to speak.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The one hole metheod is NO GOOD. Why? Because eventually the hole will slop out and get bigger. This allows the wire to move around freely in the hole. Make 2 holes and make a U out of the wire and put it through. Again, it is VERY important that the wire fits tightly in the holes. If it does not the lure will never stay in tune. It does not matter if you twist the wire or just run it back to the end of the lip. I cut a notch at the back of the lip and bend the wire into the notch and cut it off flush with the top of the lip. I have never had a lip pull out of one bait that I have made. Don't forget to cut a channel in the bottom of the lip slot so that the wire will have a place to slide into. Otherwise the lip will not sit level in the slot.

Skeeter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Skeeter,

I'm probally being dense, as I'm stuck at work, but are you saying you are not wireing INTO the bait, and instead notching the lip to hold the wire in the lip and then epoxying the whole thing in your lip slot?

Sorry for the confusion,

Clemmy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No. I make a U out of the wire. Put my two holes in the lip. Run the wire ends through their individual hole. Then I bend the wire back to the end of the lip. The channel is cut into the bait where the bottom of the lip will go. Since the wire runs along the bottom of the lip then it will need a place to go if you cut your lip slot the exact width of your lip.

For instance, as most of us know, Bagley cuts the channel in their lip and the wire runs in that slot to the back of the lip. But what if that channel was not there? You would need to cut the channel in the bottom of the lip slot for the wire to go into.

Skeeter

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ahhh,

Thanks,

I was thinking you guys were talking of one vs. two holes into the bait itself rather than into the lip.

Clemmy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Again, it is VERY important that the wire fits tightly in the holes. If it does not the lure will never stay in tune.

I have already ran into that problem. A few of my first lures had that problem and required a dose of 2 ton on the lip to band-aid my lack of experience.

Thanks for the input.

Eric

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Take a deep diving lip angle of 10 deg, a tow line angle of 35 deg, increase the diameter of the eye from 3mm to 5mm. This moves the attachment point exactly 1mm towards the front of the lip. This is enough to throw the lure into death roll territory.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now