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Powder Painting Videos

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Benjamin,

What a fantastic job. I would love to see more of that type tutorial in the future. Great idea and sure many will find it very helpful as they step into the world of powder painting. Cadman has a real killer tutorial that should be coming on-line pretty soon, but seeing it on video is double reinforcing. Thanks for your efforts and for sharing.

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Thanks for the compliments!! I would love to take all the credit, but I only did a small part (the fluid bed stuff). My business partner did the rest and a friend did all the video post production. We hope to be able to do more videos on powder painting and other stuff. I did forget to add the video about curing the powder paint when done painting. It will be on the site in a few minutes.

Thanks!

Benjamin

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Great videos. I have just a couple questions.

How do you use powder paint on Spin Baits and Buzz Baits?

What about the weedless jigs? Will the paint fill the guard hole?

I have been using vinyl paint for about 14 years now. With the technique of using a heat gun and fluid beds, I am seriously thinking og going to powder.

Thanks

Uncleskippy

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With wire baits, just heat the head only, dip them in there hook first, then pull it out. Set the bait to the side to wipe the excess powder off the hook shaft before curing.

When painting jigs, some gets in the weedguard hole, I generally run a drill bit back through them before glueing them in.

Swapping to powder just to get away from the smell of Vinyl is reason enough!

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Uncleskippy,

I used to use vinyl, and the only thing I got out of it was a real bad headache. Changing over to powder, will give you a wider variations of options, color blending, and you can even air brush over powder to get the results you want. Like dampeoples said there will be some powder that gets in the weedguard hole, and I do the same as he does, and chase the holes with a drill after they are baked. I have never like pouring lead with the weedguards in place, although there are some members that do do that. Read the thread started by Gloomisman, on base hole pins, there is some good information there that is helpful that I do, to combat some annoying problems.

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Just like Sterling said for spinner baits and buzz baits. Only heat the part you want to paint. The paint will easily wipe off the unheated parts. For paint that gets melted on by the head, we take a utility knife and quickly scrape it off. It will come off really quickly and easily. Just make sure you do this BEFORE curing. As for the weed guards, if you do get a little build up of paint in the hole, simply drill it out after curing. A lot of the weed guards produced do not stand up to the initial heating to powder paint the jig and either need to be protected during the heat process or glued in after the jigs have been painted.

Thanks for all the compliments guys!!

Benjamin

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Uncleskippy,

Understand that I don't get a commision on this -but, you should really put it in your plans to get a fluid bed as well. Benjamin makes dipping in a jar look too easy. A fluid bed is the only way to go, IMHO! Anyway, welcome to a whole new way of painting, you'll really like it.

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Pop,

The spoons in the videos were nickel plated when we started. The powder paint adheres well to the nickel. When we are done powder painting and curing the spoon we will sometimes spray it with a clear gloss vinyl. I am not sure how well powder paint would adhere to a lacquer finished spoon. I would think that heating it up would soften the lacquer and cause it to blacken. I will have to try that sometime to see what happens.

Thanks,

Benjamin

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I'll be darned if I can find the video? I bought your fliud bed this spring and several of the extra cups. It is very easy to use and after curing the heads the jigs can take a beating. I'm sure I have it down pretty good after painting hundreds of heads, but I would like to make sure I am not missing anything... Thanks for making a great product.

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I have found that some powder paint brands don't work as well as others. Thay is why we only use Pro-Tec powder paint. Of all of the pro-tec colors I have only had issues with White Pearl. It is just a very dense paint. It still works but I make sure to manually stir it from time to time just to be sure. I don't want to list the other brands that don't work as well because I don't like to post negative remarks about other products.

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Of all of the pro-tec colors I have only had issues with White Pearl. It is just a very dense paint.

I agree with you there. Sometimes, even the pink gives me a problem, but my container of pink is getting pretty old, and that may be part of it. Other colors are just fine.

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Buckslayer

I have found that some powder paint brands don't work as well as others. Thay is why we only use Pro-Tec powder paint. Of all of the pro-tec colors I have only had issues with White Pearl. It is just a very dense paint. It still works but I make sure to manually stir it from time to time just to be sure. I don't want to list the other brands that don't work as well because I don't like to post negative remarks about other products.
Are you referring to powders only in fluid beds, or just the usual application. I use 9-10 brands of manufacturers, and never had a problem so far. Please PM me, I am curious about what manufacturers you have had problems with........Thanks
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