Dweller

Dick Nites Pros & Cons

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Who is using Dick Nites? What are some of the Pros & Cons? I am thinking about starting to use this and need a little convincing? How is it over 2-ton?

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I just started using it myself. I can see where there might be advantages to both. I make a topwater prop bait, and the 2 coats of 2ton seem a lot heavier then dick's. Plus the dipping of dick's is a real plus. I don't think it would be strong enough for muskie baits, but are fine for bass and less toothy critters. I also sign my baits with a sharpie, and that smeared with Dick's. Another step is needed to coat the sharpie with a clear coat. But so far The ease of dick's makes it an easy choice for me. I might not be the best one to answer your question but so far I'm happy with it.

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JMHO - DN is nice; slicker, thinner, more transparent, but just as tough as 2T. You can dip with it, which can be a plus. But 2T is easier and less finicky in my experience. It's thicker and levels out much better, which tends to hide any sanding problems, etc. I haven't finished learning how to use DN, and using 2T for several years has made it a "no brainer". But I like the finished product with DN and will keep experimenting with it.

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I have read many times about DN being a problem when dipping. Have you experimented with the drying wheel speed?

This is not a hijack attempt, I think it is relevant!

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Hazmail noted in a thread recently that Dicknite's is harder to sand than Devcon 2-T...He's correct! Dicknite's topcoat is much more resistant to scratches than any epoxy I've used. Dicknite's also continures to cure for a month, although if I hadn't been told that, I don't know if I would have notice the difference. I have banged around some lures very hard, coated with dicknite's, and have yet to blemish them. Testing it I've also painted it on a couple of other lures with other coatings, in patches and it has shown no sign of peeling; It seems to adhere very strongly to a painted surface or other finishes; I don't think it could ever delaminate. I expect that if a muskie did stick a hole in it, that it wouldn't cause further damage. I would like to know how it stacks up against Devcon for tooth penetration. If the Devcon fends off teeth better than Dicknite's then I would use an initial coat of Devcon followed by a couple coats of Dicknite's. I don't know how you'd make a tougher muskie bait than that!

V-man, I think more people are dipping it than brushing it on. I dipped it on my first 2 baits with it, and realized that I couldn't keep it off my lip that way, and have been brushing it on ever since. It brushes on much faster than epoxy, in fact you'd better brush it on faster than epoxy--it flashes so fast that if you try to work it like epoxy you are going to cause problems.

Spare tire, just hit your signature with a clear compatible with your paint. I use Createx or Parma Fascoat so that is the clear I use. It really makes your signature pop and you cannot tel it is there. It is an extra step, but it is one that takes about two minutes for half a dozen lures, and you can do it as well with a brush as an air brush; if you use Createx or Parma Clear be sure and heat-set it thoroughly.

Dicknite's doesn't level like epoxy, but I really like that characteristic; because it also doesn't pull away from edges like epoxy does, which means it works on a wider variety of shapes, and it doesn't obliterate carved details beneath a smooth layer of clearcoat.

Once you get the hang of handling and airtight storage, I too think it is super easy to use.

Dean

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I love DN like Dean said it seems to be very scratch resistant, I use a pigma micron (sp?) pen and have not had a problem with signature run.Still struggling with the air tight jar tho.:eek:

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I've been spraying it on with my eclipse with good results. Had problems dipping over enamels. One thin (flash) coat and two wet coats sprayed on works great over them and is very tough. I imagine I could dip it after the flash coat. The stuff stinks and need a booth or an outdoor setup. VMAXX, I found that if you cover the lid with glad "press 'n seal" it will solve the jar sealing problem. I tried the turning the can upside down trick and had a major disaster. Even though I pounded the lid on tight, I still had a small leak that oozed out and sealed the can shut. Got it off after about 20min of prying !!

Cliff

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Vodkaman, I use a 4 rpm wheel, 6 rpm might be better, I'm not sure. Water cured poly flash dries VERY quickly. Like Dean says, if you brush it, move quickly or the first edge you coat will have begun to tack up by the time you get back around the lure to it.

Cliff - airbrushing it sounds attractive. Have you experienced any problems or do you have any tips regarding doing it? Don't you have to clean up the brush like RIGHT NOW to prevent clogging? The stuff flashes so fast that I figured atomization with 30-40lbs of air pressure was not an option.

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It sprays on real nice at 40#. I usually spray quite a few at a time so there is always movement of the needle and clean right away. It's not any tuffer than spraying laquer or enamels through it. I was using a small auto detail gun with it at first, but the eclipse is alot easier to clean up. Just don't let it sit idle too long, I would imagine it would glue a needle in the brush pretty good !!

Cliff

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Cliff,

I would assume that if you are spraying this on, then there would not be a need for a drying wheel. Is that right? This would seem to be an added benefit to me.

Maypo

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Hey Maypo. The drying wheel is not needed when sprayed. If I remember right, Dick Nite sprays the product on his lures as well. Cliff

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I have purchased some DN's on Deans encouragement and am still experimenting with it at this time and have found no problems with it so far.....as long as you heed all the warnings:eek: like sealing and storing it properly and what it reacts to and does'nt. Like mentioned in an earlier post I did notice that it does'nt delaminate (lobw) or pull away from sharp corners and I have a couple baits out for a test drive this week on some deep rockpiles that should put it thru the toughness test.

Make sure if you are using water based paints that you DRY IT THOROUGHLY before coating ....I used a hair dryer and it seemed to work fine. I sure like the part about not having to mix before coating and I can clear (brush) a lot more baits before it sets up on me.

Good Luck with it :yay:

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I've used Parafilm M for years to seal paint jars. The stuff is great for making an air tight seal.

I don't know what type of jar DN is in, but Parafilm should be able to seal it.

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The DN jar is glass with a screw top, what I have a problem with is the paint cans.

The seal isn't the problem, keeping the stuff out of the threads or out of the little ridge on the can is the problem!

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Poke a few holes in the bottom of the groove on the top of the can with an awl or something sharp. This will allow paint that accumulates there to drain back into the can and the lid will still seal up tight.

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I've had very good results with DN. The only problem I encountered was when I got the coating in the can groove which very effectively welded the lid to the can. That is amazingly strong stuff! Once I finally pried the lid off, I transferred the DN to a glass jar with a metal screw on lid. I now use a cheapo turkey baster to transfer the DN to smaller containers. No more stuck lids.

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One more pro I forgot is Dick himself, his customer service is second to none and is very willing to help in any way he can:)

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