Soupysayso

I guess this is the place for this post?!? I'm curious if anybody has a recipe for something along the lines of the Megabass version of sexy shad (it also comes in sexy French pearl, sexy ayu, etc. etc. ) I'm most interested in what looks like the old g-finish on a new lure...is that a pearl mica, translucent paint over holograph film, or fine glitter? Just how does Megabass put sexy on their shad cuz I'm stumped?

Ok, so when a bait is good it seems like Berkley likes to discontinue it and I've begun to get low on my 100 bags of the bungee worm. I guess my question is something to the effect of "how do they do that?" The mold itself seems like a simple one but how do they get that bungee effect? I'm a newbie at soft plastics

try www.fish307.com The ML4 series is essentially the dream catcher series as far as I can tell. I didn't look for your specific model but they had one I was looking for.

I was thinking, to get tail action, why not make the tail bigger than the main body? Thus making it bigger and more water resistant, probably more buoyant in some cases. Imagine, jointed rapala with tail section removed (cutoff) and bigger re-crafted tail section added. I haven't tried it, but I was thinking along the same lines (getting more tail action). It's kind of the same concept as adding feathers to the rear hook to get that sway. I really like the new 3 section jointed baits by jackall bros/lake police and the tsunami floating jointed walking minnow. You might wanna check those out.

as an update, I scrapped trying to take them apart, don't have time to fool with them. I'll be more careful in the future haha. Although, the water and freezing sounds interesting, never would've thought of that. thanks for the help anyway.

OOPS! I assembled some hard plastic crankbaits and forgot to add rattles as I first intended. Now I want to disassemble the baits without destroying them totally or having to buy new bodies and start over. Is there something to undo the epoxy I used to cement the two halves together. Devcon is the product in question. There are a set of "keys" as well. Fortunately, they did not get painted yet so it's not REAL bad just yet. I have limited knowledge of chemicals so if you name one, let me know where I can find it. Thanks for any/all help.

Can anybody tell me the difference between the calf tail and bucktail? Is the calf tail thicker and stiffer? What are the advantages/disadvantages of either. I'm looking for some stout dressed trebles. The smallies are destroying my bucktail trebles.

Those are great suggestions party. I actually noticed a difference when trying out different trailers. The thicker bucktail trailers definitely help those heavy spinners out versus the feather trebles I was using. Would a tungsten barrel weight be more successful than the bullet weight? Seems to me it is more center balanced and less tail heavy. So far, the mojo weights have been better for what I've been doing. I can drill the hole out wider and slide them on the wire, drop a few drops of lead into the hole to seal them in place and i'm in business. It's like a homemade rooster tail but much cheaper with better quality components. A second question I have is about line twist. I tried the barrel swivel up the line from the spinner and the fish flat out rejected it. Should I try twisting the wire around a barrel swivel so there is no distance between the two?

yah, I have been leaning towards the musky baits and large swimbaits. It doesn't seem to matter what I catch the smaller ones on, the bigger ones always trail it, tube, crankbait, jig, topwater, doesn't matter. I don't have time left this year to play with it, as the fish are much deeper now but I plan on untuning some musky baits to run erratic and try my luck. Thanks for the suggestions.

I must be doing something wrong with my tiki snakes, can't get a sniff.......you're welcome to mine I envisioned them like zooms vibe tail worm or buzztail shad that would act like a soft plastic buzzbait. Mine don't do that, or am I doing something wrong?

Jigmaker, or anybody else knowledgeable on this topic, does the weight of a spinner have to be located somewhere specifically on the shaft? I suspect the reason for my troubles is that the weight was not anchored to the wire but instead free floating. Given that it is so heavy, I suspect it was pinching the blade against the lead eye tie. Rooster tails seem to be more center-weighted while mepps seem to be anchored at the back of the wire shaft. Are there advantages to each?

Jig, the whole front of the wire is gyrating so bad it almost looks like a crankbait lip It's not going in circles, it's just going left to right, like.....well.....a crankbait! Although, my line is knarly when I'm done fishing the heavy spinners.

I have two hardbaits I would like to have a mold made for. One is an original plastic form from a company that no longer makes the lure. The other is a smaller hand carved wood version that I have tested and am happy with. I do not have the time or expertise to get into making my own RTV silicone molds so I thought I would throw it out there to see if anybody would like some business. It would involve a 4 part mold as there are some complex internal cavities and a wire through design. I would need to use the mold to make in the neighborhood of 1000 molded lures. I have considered del-mart as a possibility but I am posting this for some guidance from the forum members. Lures are approximately 3 3/4" and 3" long and 3/4" and 1/2" wide respectively with tapered design. Also, what are the laws regarding reproducing lures for sale that are no longer produced? Anybody who is interested can either post here or private message me with approximate costs and requirements. Thanks in advance.