the greek

If you are just looking for the sleeve its called a nose grommet. you can get them at NJ tackle, cape cod tackle, salty's etc.

I've also poured spinnerbaits with it and they come out great. Also used a 30 degree hook and it makes a nice swimbait head.

Is there a readily available alternative to the comercial mold release agents? I was thinking of using a silicone spray. I need it to release RTV from RTV. Any help is appreciated.

About how long until you can remove newly poured baits from a two piece aluminum mold? I have a bunch of water putty and pop molds but was wondering if the aluminum ones were any different at all?

I am having trouble getting these to swim or to do anything really. These are my first attempt at any type of chatterbait. I know the head I am am using probably doesn't help much but I had them on hand. I don't have the snaps in these as I just wanted to get a quick pic. When I swam these I tried using the blade {#3 colorado} both ways, with the convex side forward and the concave side forward. Both did the same thing, nothing. They came right up to the top and came in straight as an arrow. These are 1/4 oz heads and I was using a small duolock snap that left the blade very free to move as it wanted to. Would a heavier head be a solution? Do I need a bigger blade? Or are the colorado blades not going to work. I saw someone say they had success with them. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I make mostly saltwater baits for Striped Bass but I don't see why this wouldn't work on smaller baits. I use annealed s/s wire .051 that comes on a roll. My bait is drilled through with an 1/8" hole from nose to tail. I do my through drilling on the lathe. The belly hole is 1/4" and intersects the other hole. I make a long nose loop. I have a hook made from stiff welding wire that I insert in the belly hole. I run the wire though the bait and the hook. I insert something to keep the nose loop from pulling through, in this case I used a small allen key. Then grab the hook with a pair of pliers and pull the wire out for you belly hook hanger. I then mark where I want the wire to end up inside the bait and cut wire there. Then with a pair of round jaw pliers I run the wire back through the bait and clean up the belly hanger and tail loop with the round jaw pliers. Then epoxy your nose loop, belly hanger, and tail loop. I have not had one pull out yet although I have not had anything of sustantial size on a bait done this way. This is what I end up with. I hope this helps.

I bought a pair of round nose pliers when I first started and they have served me well. I've done what you mentioned with them plus bend .062 weld wire for all my saltwater baits with them. You can pick them up at any craft store for under 10 bucks in the jewelry section.

I have been messing around with this one for a while now. It's not a true flatfish but I built it with it in mind. I need to move the line tie closer to bottom of the lip and I think that will solve some of its problems. It really digs in and heads for the bottom quickly, but rolls out real fast when you get a steady retrieve going. Its around 4 1/2" and about 1.25 oz. Thru-wired with .062 s/s weld wire and has 2/0 hooks.

I use a disposable acid brush if that helps. Use a strong light directly on your work as it helps to spot the gaps.

I put the lip in a small vice and clamp it where you want the bend to begin. Then slowly heat the lip with a heat gun and bend the lip where you need it. Make sure the point where you want the bend to start is slightly above the jaw on the vice as that is where the bend will start. Hope this helps.

Creek Chub offered it as a standard color in 1916. So my guess is it was being used well before that.

Outstanding as usual.

Anyone have a source for lexan thinner than .093 other than ordering or online. I have tried my local glass shops, homies and lowes with no luck.