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jcarman

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About jcarman

  • Birthday 09/28/1963

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    http://www.fishhuntdive.com

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  1. I use Testors decal paper. You can print right on it from an inkjet printer, or by hand with a pen, then you seal it with a spray on material to keep it from running. Here is a link to the package... Testors Most hobby stores carry it. It's a little delicate, but once you get the hang of it no problem. And, it is so thin, the top coat goes right over it no issues! Good luck!
  2. I have been making some topwater lures out of the white foamy looking lure bodies you can get from Hagens, Janns, etc. Some of these bodies are a little prous, and even though I prime them, then paint them, when I put on the topcoat it seems like the bodies have small air pockets trapped in the porous areas and this leaves bubbles in my topcoat. Typically a second coat will fill in the bubbles and all looks OK, but I am waondering if there is something I can do to seal the bodies before I start painting and thus won't have to topcoat twice. Any advice? JC
  3. Thanks Tim, I'll give it a try. My whole goal here is to increase production by dipping rather than brushing on D2T. While it sounds like a much faster way to top coat, all these little extras you have to do might just be as easy to brush on D2T! I'll give this a try as well. I appreciate the help- jc
  4. Thanks Mags. Is this something I can find at Home Depot or Ace or where? Thanks for the help- Jeff
  5. Thanks Bob- Me, wait for the paint to fully dry? I will do that on my next batch. I will heat set each coat and see what happens. I did follow your previous instructions and dip and let drip dry towards the tail end. It seemed to work well in the places that didn't wrinkle. I have shot DN before, but the vapors get so bad. I am not really set up to spray volatiles, so I am hoping the heat set thing will work, thanks again for the advice! jc
  6. OK, I am trying the dipping method with DN lure coat. The problem I had was that the paint wrinkled pretty bad after dipping. I am using createx and faskolor water based paints. Did I not let the paint dry long enough or what could be the problem. The areas that didn't wrinkle came out looking very nice, but the wrinkles are a problem... jc
  7. Skeeter- Are you spraying water base paints? If so, sounds like you might be trying to spray too thick of paint. Try thinning until the paint is milk like consistency. Turn your air pressure up next. Too much is better than too little I think. If you bought a mask and are still getting dizzy, you must be shooting solvent based paints. I suggest you switch to water based. I spray my baits in a bedroom converted to a project room. No harmful or flammable vapors, and I don't get the munchies! I prime all my plastic bodies with a water based rattle can white primer from Rustoleum. It is very forgiving, doesn't stink, and dries fast. It also seals the foam bodies very nicely. I only clearcoat at the very end of the job. Hope this helps, there are many ways to do things, so this is just my opinion, and keep your eyes wide open on this site as there is a lot of experience and you can learn something every day! Most importantly, just keep trying new things! Jeff:yay:
  8. Dave- I use D2T on all my baits and have not had this problem ever. My baits are used for stripers and muskies, blues, tuna and halibut, including surfcasting into the rocks and sand, and I don't have this problem! Are you spraying or thinning the D2T? My baits are ABS and lexan, but can't imagine PVC being a lot different. I use createx and faskolor paints, but again that should seem to matter. Are you brushing the D2T on your baits? Have you tried to apply a second coat and see if that stops the chipping? Jeff
  9. OK, so I have come to the realization that in order to speed things up in my production process that dipping my crankbiats in DN is the way to go. Can anyone answer a few questions about this process? 1. I make 6"-9" striper baits with the lips already on them. When dipping, do you just immerse the lip in the DN too? Or do you try and tape them off....? 2.Once you dip the lures, do you just hang them and wait or is there some work that needs to be done while they are drying such as turning them over, etc. 3. Do you think the DN top coat? Is dipping the best way or should I be looking at spraying? The only problem with spraying that I can see is the vapors...they are bad! Also, I tried dipping some dodgers that has some graphics applied to them and the DN didn't run off all uniform, but instead left a lot of runs and drips around the graphics. Was it too thick? Any advice from the TU group would be appreciated. JC
  10. Thanks Bob, I appreciate the info. It's not that I don't like Dick Nite's topcoat, it's porbably more that I don't understand it yet and need to dig into it more. I like the idea of dipping lures, so I might try that in the coming days. Sounds like a great way to speed things up! Maybe I'll put something out on dipping DN and see what great advice I come up with. I'll tell you this, the TU folks have saved me some time and given great advice over the years. Nothing replaces experience! Thanks for the help- Jeff
  11. Thanks guys, I appreciate the info. I have a Michaels where I live and am heading over there today to get a box! As far as lure turners go, a few years ago I got one of those chicken rotisserie units at a yard sale for 5 bucks. It already has two wheels and about 12" between them, so I just added some eye bolts and use springs to suspend my lures. Currently it takes four lures, but I think I can up that to 8. It even has a timer on it! If I could find another one of those I'd buy it too! I'll check Craigs list, thats a great idea! Thanks again- JC
  12. Does anyone know who the manufacturer is for the clear, unpainted 5" and 7" minnow bodies that barlows and Stamina sells? I need to buy a large quantity, but neither barlows or stamina provides a quantioty discount over 50 pieces. I'd like to buy them direct if anyone might know where to start. I know I can get them from china, but I'd rather buy domestic products. jc
  13. I am sure someone out there has gone through this same issue... I make striper lures, mostly 8" - 9" minnows and some large poppers too. I topcoat all my lures with D2T and have great success with it. It provides such a great depth to the lures, impact resistance, etc...but it's slow to brush on every lure. I have a few bait shops and many customers demanding more lures and I would like to increase production, but the D2T is really the bottleneck. Does any one have any ideas or know of another topcoat that will provide the same depth and lustre without having to brush the product on? I have never used etex, but read many posting about it...do you dip or brush it on? I have toyed around with DN's topcoat, sprayed it on and got a reasonable finish, but not as nice as D2T. Maybe thats just my technique! Many people have talked about dipping DN's top coat, but I tried and ended up with drips, seemed messy, etc. Please let me know any and all ideas. Thanks- jc
  14. Jamie- I did try to use Stamina's containers, but their 9" box was really only 8" anf their next size up was 11" long but it was 3" wide, pretty big for a stickbait! Thanks though... Cartoonmark, this idea interests me. Do you know where I can get these? I'll look around and see if I can find some...just wondering about closing up the ends...? Thanks for the thoughts!
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