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Musky Lip

TU Member
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About Musky Lip

  • Birthday 05/25/1983

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chicago, IL USA
  • Interests
    Musky fishing, lure building, and breeding dwarf shrimp...

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  1. I have used this for vaccum forming and it works great. Only problem is that it is thick and hard to cut.
  2. I have used this in the past. It looks great until you put a clear coat on. Once you add a clear coat it just looks like any other silver paint I have used.
  3. what u-pol product are you using? 2K HS Clear Coat , 2K 2.1VOC Clear Coat , or 1K Clear Coat?
  4. Musky Lip

    custom musky jerkbaits

    I am selling these lures so I can buy more supplies to build more... $25 each plus $5 for shipping. Please send me a PM if you are interested. They are the best jerkbait I have ever thrown. On a strait retrieve they have a side to side swinging action, you can walk-the-dog with ease, and burn it with some twitches for erratic action that drives the muskie crazy! 100% satisfaction guaranteed! - Made from cedar - 7.25" long - 3.3oz - Hand weighed to ensure perfect buoyancy to achieve a fall rate of 12" per second - custom paint job: silver and blue with blue scales (red eye shad) - .092 super heavy duty screw eyes - 4/O muskie hooks - 3D quality red eyes - Individually tested to ensure they swim perfect on every cast - Before paint, each lure gets sealed with a quality wood sealer so it will never get water damage - 2 coats of envirotex Let me know if you have any questions and I will be happy to try and answer them asap.
  5. This is a new lure shape for me. I tested it and it swam (glided) great so I put together some paint schemes. Please feel free to leave your constructive criticism since I am still new to this. Thanks.
  6. Yeah, I have one with etex on the wheel right now. I too do not like the fact that I have to wait 8 hours before paint.
  7. I couldn't be happier with the action... I am just trying to perfect the paint jobs. I will try soaking the blanks in the sanding sealer to see if that works. Thanks
  8. I have been using oak because it needs less amount of lead... I am sure I will try different types of wood but I like oak because of its density and strength. I'm looking for some kind of product that will cover the grain so it doesn't show through the paint.
  9. Here are my first three lures. I have been reading posts over the last month and I have learned a lot. Thank you everyone for passing along your knowlege to others. The only issue I am having is that you can still see the wood grain even after I use sanding sealer, and kills primer... any advise? Thanks
  10. I am new to airbrushing as well. Things I have learned in the last few weeks: #1 Keep the air flowing at all times and just slightly pulling back to get desired paint. Press forward again to reduce or stop paint flow while keeping the air flowing. #2 Water down paint to 50/50 for more control. It seems to come out more smoothly when watered down. #3 Remember to oil your needle so you don't get dry tip. Dry tip causes the paint to come out in bursts. #4 Keep the air pressure low (I keep mine around 15 psi)for detailing. #5 Remove the crown cap for detailed work. I have the iwata Eclipse HP-BS I use Createx paints. -Musky Lip
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