archeryrob

I wanted to be able to be consistent with making my dive lips. I am not a machinist and don't have the fancy tools like a mill and things, so I went at in simply with the tools available to me. I have a computer with AutoCAD, a band saw and a belt sander. I design my lips in AutoCAD and print them out, glue them on the lexan or plexi and cut and sand them out. Here is the full write up on it. Here is one still with the glued on template and one with the template off ready to be inserted into the lure.

A picture of this would really help.

I am not eactly sure what you mean, by this. Dive out to the side, as in roll over like a miss tuned lure? My first thought was to wire the lip like a diving walleye baits do, but I think I might want to pin the dive blade and I'm only using acrlyic and I am not sure it can handle that strain.

OK, here is a D Bait I have made for a few years. It works nice, but it only runs 3' to 4' and when chasing stripers in the spring I would do better, if I could run it deeper. I know about the line tie on the dive blade, but don't feeel confident putting one there. Once big fish and just get the dive blade back. If I moved the line tie on a few to the Red or Blue line, how much would it affect action and diving? The lure has great wobble, but I would like to make some that run deeper.

Brant, you have a "how to" on making that center? I might like some of these for Striper season.

they are just HDPE, as you local landfill wher they place that. You may have to saw it up for them.

Yup, Mark summed it up there. Hook hanger opens are 120 pounds but you're using 20 pound test.

Screw eyes are pretty strong. Guys always question how strong and I have seen guys load test them, but you know, I have not seen anyone hang a commerical lure the same way and no one questions them. Their hangers hardly go into the plastic. Get some stainless steel wire and round nose plier and make your own hook hangers. Drill the angle right and you can make them pretty long, probably much longer than you need. Screw eyes work just fine, these will just cost you less. http://archeryrob.wordpress.com/2013/12/31/hook-hangers-diy/

I have been using Etex lite

Jaw, I use the metal duct tape you can get from a building supply, air conditioning company and lowes or Home depot, if you look and ask for it. http://archeryrob.wordpress.com/2013/12/13/lure-foil-on-the-cheap/ If you pub it really good it will polish up even better. You can't do the scales and polish it later or, you flatten out the scales.

and the D Bait 3" recipe

OK, I am not going to do this all the time. I have to screen shot the computer, paste in paint, trim and repaste and save just to post it here and it looks like crap still. Its in excel

I have adobe Pro at work, but not here at home. With Adobe Reader you can only change it to text, which can't be uploaded here either. maybe they will make a way to post in the Gallery some how for things like this?? The rattle Trap is a one piece bait drilled with a pilot bit, then a shallow 5/8" on each side and 1/2" on each side to finish it all the way through. Then covered with soda can sides for the walls and a very thin layer of wood putty. Soda Can rattle chamber

Yea, its just like everything else, if you don't document how you did it, six months later you will not remember. Once you make good beer, you want to make it again, and again, and again .... But anyways, I made a lure recipe sheet on excel and print a PDf and was looking to "Share" but can figure out how to post it. Can't attach to the message, can't upload to a gallery, that I can tell. Mods! Super Users! Anyone know?

I doubt you're going to make "that perticular" lure useful as once cast how do you get the weights in. Like Bob said, its a prototype and add hooks and get strips of duct or electrical tape and tape weight to positions and float it in a bucket, or tank. I tape the weights to the bottoms of my proto's as that is where they belly weights will be installed. Mark the spots on a recipe paper and position the weights on the next casting, inside. No one can tell you what size weight or weither fore and aft. Take the take, weights, and start testing the prototype. you'll find successes, failures, and unepected results, which can be either success or failure. BTW, nice carving job!!