CncDude

So that was ???

I am trying to figure out how an AL mold is made that creates a hollow cavity inside a creature/craw style bait...prime example would be a Biffle Bug. The other components (body, legs, etc) are very straight forward...but I am guessing this has to be a 3 piece mold with a bladed insert. I don't have any molds that have inserts and have never worked with one. Just trying to see how difficult it is to do something similar in a design I am working on. Anyone point me in a general direction?

I thought that might be the case as well but I have seen a few out there that are pretty close but can't track down the mold info. I'll keep looking! thanks!

I guess no one makes lizards???

Looking for a multi-cavity mold that is as close as I can get to a Zoom 6" lizard. Everything I have found is thick in the body or has a tail that is too long. Suggestions?

I appreciate the offer but I have already made the investment in a couple of Presto pots and put valves in them. Hopefully I will get similar results to your Lee pots. I use a Lee for lead and it is an excellent tool.

Normally I would heat in the mw first and then use the griddle to try to hold heat by setting the pyrex on the griddle between pours. The pyrex seems to stay heated on the bottom but the top cools off fast....even on the griddle. I am hoping the silicone will be less likely to cool in that situation...but don't know. I have my presto pots drilled/tapped and will be working on a pouring stand this week. that should help with the 2 cup+ size runs but until I get the colors formulated the way I want, I am still working in 4 oz batches. Thanks for the suggestion! Roy

Have infrared thermometer and just ordered the Norpor cups which make sense....Thanks! I assume I can set them on a griddle as well?

Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I am going to try all of the above and see how it goes. Much appreciated! Roy

I have 2 cup & a 1 cup. I am also working with 4 oz of plastic.... So it sounds like I & ok to that point. I do find the top part of the 2 cup cools pretty fast. And the microwave shuffle ( reheat, pour, reheat, etc) is a pain. I follow exactly what you are saying about stream width & pour height....thanks for the tip. How do you pour these very narrow openings without the flash around the top? There must be something I am missing. Thanks for the help!!! Going to go make more ugly swimbaits this morning!

I have to admit I have new respect for some of the beautiful hp pieces I have seen out there after trying to match their quality. What tricks am I missing? I have some LC 3.5 SB RTV molds with VERY narrow slots between the body and the paddle tail. I have tried to pour in one place and let it flow (doesn't work), pouring the the tail and narrow slot first (results in flash around the top), or slowly working it back and forth (mixture of doesn't work and/or flash around the top). I read something about folks using a heated butter knife to scrape the flash off while it is still hot but don't know about that one. I have seen these same molds produce high quality slightly round back baits without the sunken back caused by under filling. So I have to assume it is something I am doing wrong. I am pouring from pryex and using the microwave which seems to be compounding the problem of keeping it heated. I have two Prestos which I will be installing the valves on tomorrow...maybe that will help (don't know how it is going to help with the really tight slot area in this mold). Anybody make any suggestions or offer any tips/tricks ? Thanks! Roy

Received injectors ! Post office just running a little slow as usual!!! Thanks Patrick Roy

Checking on shipment of the injector?

Have to play with the MF (what we have right now) to find the right softness. Might try the Calhoun on the next batch. thanks for the tip!