Jump to content

Pickadoll

TU Member
  • Posts

    99
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Pickadoll last won the day on July 10 2017

Pickadoll had the most liked content!

About Pickadoll

  • Birthday 10/30/1986

Profile Information

  • Location
    Norsjö
  • Interests
    Fishing, playing music, making homemade lures.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,030 profile views

Pickadoll's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

16

Reputation

  1. Hello everyone! When I have built resin baits in the past I have been mostly using Smooth on Feather lite but I have recently started to play more with mixing the ballons into the resin by my self. I am using Alumilite RC-3 and Alumilite Micro ballons. Do you guys have any tip on how to figure out the right amount fast? Resin is exspensive :D! I always seems to mix too much so I need to throw away a lot of resin OR to little. I want the density o the resin to be something like Beech wood, something around 0,70 - 0,80. I also think I prefer to do it by weight and not by volume like everyone seems to do on Youtube wich cant be that accurate? Thanks. /David
  2. Epoxy can cause skin allergies very fast. Always use gloves and if you get it on your skin, go and wash it of as soon as possible. If you live in Usa you should get True Coat. It is a new epoxy clearcoat made especially for lures. It is environmental friendly, not toxic so you wont need a gas-mask (but it can probably cause skin allergies like epoxies tends to do), it dries in just a couple of hours and it is clearer than Envirotex, thick viscocity (1 layer is like 2 layers of etex) and you wont nee to be afraid of fish eyes cause you wont get them with True coat like other epoxies. /David
  3. When I make suspending/slowsink/sinking wood glide jerkbaits I mainly use beechwood but I also like to use Siberian larch. I have also tried oak, linden tree (swedish basswood), maple, pine, american ash wood, and fir wood. But the first two I meantioned is perfect for glidebaits and super easy to work with if you compare to woods like oak and maple. If you have a saw machine like bandsaw and a router to round the edges you will be very very happy with beechwood. Siberian larch is easier to shape than beechwood but needs a bit more lead weight but nowhere near as much as you need with basswood. Hope this helped a bit!? /Pickadollbaits
  4. Pickadoll

    musky bait

    I really love that one <3!
  5. Hello everybody! Today I made a big misstake at the workshop. I drilled 1 of 2 weight holes in the wrong place on 50 lures today.I dont know how I managed to do that haha! Is there a good way to fill these holes up and then drill new holes in the right position? Maybe by making a filler by mixing epoxy and saw dust? The wood I use has the density around 0,65-0,75m3 and the epoxy I use has the density just over 1,0 so the epoxy is heavier than the wood. /Pickadollbaits
  6. Pickadoll

    Trollingbait.jpg

    Yes. Check my Instagram: Pickadollbaits
  7. Pickadoll

    trollingbait.jpg

    Trolling bait for Northern Pike.
  8. Pickadoll

    Trollingbait.jpg

    Foiled trolling bait for Northern pike.
  9. Pickadoll

    Trollinbait.jpg

    Trolling bait for Northern Pike. 27cm long.
  10. I painted this lure with Faskolor Fasglitter Gold. It worked great.
  11. I used Plastic padding to build the plating on the back of the lure and then covered it with aluminum foil and then I used a rust paint from a model painting brand like you said :)!
  12. That looks really awesome! Btw. What kind of wood do you use to carve? I havent made a foiled lure in a couple of years but when I saw your video I now want to do it again :)! I have tried many types of foiling techniques. I generally like to put the foil all around the lure so I can use the airbrush to make a smooth transition between foil and paint BUT I didnt have any picture of any lures when I did so haha! /David
  13. Are you going to make a two piece silicone mold? You can use clay that you can melt and then pour to the center line of the bait and you will get a pretty awesome seam line. I recommend this clay cause it is high quality stuff I used for at least 5 years. Chavant NSP (Sulphur free). And you can reuse it as many times as you want.
  14. Thanks for the answer. Have you tried other kinds of wood hardeners or have you only tried Minvax wood hardener? Just want to know if Minvax version is the best option cause Minvax is really hard to get a hand on in my country (Sweden).
  15. I have always wanted to try Minvax Wood hardener for my detailed carved lures cause I need a sealer that doesn't build on the surface like epoxy, propionate and so on. But I've heard that Wood hardener is very toxic stuff. Do I need to use special protection clothes when I use it :)?
×
×
  • Create New...
Top