In reference to handpouring the baits I could do that but I am inconsistant in doing that and I end up overflowing the cavity most of the time so it is not a real option for me. I wanted to inject the baits but this is not obviously working out.
Del, I am trying to inject the netcraft molds and your Horny Toad mold.
I added 1/32" vents at the tips of the legs in the Horny Toad mold as you suggested, but when I inject it, the baits are mostly left with voids. I injected 22 baits and 5 came out okay, the rest were left with voids on the baits. As I stated in the my previous post the injectors plunger lets air escape out of the injector so it has no air pressure it only works when plastic is in the injector because it fills the void around the plunger. I also used a medicine injector that was sealed and it does not work because it does not have enough pressure to push the plastic to the tail. I tried to preheat the mold thinking it would help the plastic flow easier. I gave up on the vacuum idea because if it pulled too hard it would suck plastic into the line. I thoough about using an air compressor at a low psi but everyone thought it was too dangerous.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Delw
squig, I am not following this coversation really well
are you trying to inject plastic into a alum grub mold so you dont have to pour the tail seperate?
if you are you need to drill a 1/32 hole at teh very type of the tail 1/16 is best because most guys dont have a drill press and only have a hand drill.
hand poured molds are not made for injecting as they dont have bleed holes, you DONT need to pre heat the mold either as it wont make any difference.
if you put a bleed hole in the tail you could pour down the body then shoot air into it with the hand injector then finish pouring the body, just keep your plastic on the hot side. with out a bleed hole you just cant do it.
Vaccum wont work on a alum mold with a long tail like that due to the plastic cools off to fast
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