Hahahaha , didn't even notice , that there also were no hook eyes on that pictured lure
!
I always test my lures with temporary rigged sceweyes and hardware in my bathtube , to prevent water sepage at this stage , I'd apply a topcoat of acrylic clear paint on the wood before(later sand it a little rough prior to priming) .
By this bath tube testing I can determine about the performance of the lure , wether to shave its lip and where and how many weights to add , etc. !
I know , that this means a lot of extra work effort , but most likely it saves me from disappointment on the finished product
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I'd only leave out this test , if I make several lures of the same model , also of the same wood , since I can expect them to run in about the same manner .
If it should happen to have to change the position of an eyescrew , I'd close the old hole with a toothpick .
I'd just apply some epoxy or waterproof wood glue onto it and gently hammer it down the hole and break the potruding part off
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Sand smooth after curing !
I guess , you could still twist out an epoxied screw eye with bigger pliers and quite a bit of force , I haven't done it before , only on eyes set it with superglue , no problems about that !
But screw eyes of brass might break , they don't stand too much twisting force
!
I would leave the lure , like it is , your described "twitching" action sounds promising !
Good Luck
, Dieter
