What's wrong with Denatured alcohol (besides being toxic). I use that sometimes and have also used acetone. I used D2T for a long time without thinning, but the bigger the baits got I just had to thin to get the stuff not to get hard on me, no matter how fast I went. You can heat a little to bring it back to life but I think that just speeds up the curing process. I think it really depends on your location, here in Fl is like 100 degrees with 100% humidity. The D2T sets up super quick. Hence my need to thin a little.
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Originally Posted by Downriver Tackle
Don't even go there. LOL There's so many remover formulations, god knows what you're thinning it with. some are even water-based now. As for the denatured alcohol guys. You're playing with fire. Virgin DNA will work, but it's surely not the best reducer. It could cause clouding and it will retain moisture rather well. Can lead to some ugly clear jobs in high humidity or if you're not dilligent in keeping it closed. The best reducer for almost any epoxy is a 3:1 mix of MIBK(methyl isobutyl ketone) and toluene. You'll get the fastest reduction and a nice glass finish. Acetone is way too fast and generally takes too much to get the viscosity you need. I'm still puzzled why so many people want to reduce their epoxy though. I can see for spraying, but for brushing, I use 100% solid epoxy and it flows out just beautifully. Trying to do a quickie job with multiple coats of quick set epoxy just isn't time efficient. 1 coat of 100%(3 minutes per lure) and I'm done. Put then on the turner for 3 hours and they're set-up, ready to use or ship tomorrow.
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