@ mark poulson
I take weeks and months of time , from cutting out until rigging hooks . First because of this mentioned preservation method on abachewood , second reason is , that I always make a batch of lures at one time , say between 6 and 20 wood blanks , before I start out painting them .
I much prefer carving different lureshapes rather than painting them(you can see this on my only average paint designs) , so I easily end up with so many blanks for painting , before I notice , that it is now high time to commence with it
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Also I only have a small , dusty basement workshop , before painting I must clear and brush it up a bit prior to painting , and I don't always feel like cleaning up
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@ jamie
Just give it a go , you can only win , either lots of fish caught or some experience about what went wrong
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Just joking , but I haven't yet made a jointed model , though I have a jointed "Flatfish" of plastic somewhere . This lure is about little more than 4" , maybe even 5" in length , and very , very light , doesn't look too sturdy to me !
I have also considered making a jointed version for a long period of time , but so far no satisfying idea came up to me .
I am just a bit concerned about the added weight on the tail of such lure , provided by the hardware of the joining hinge , since I strictly believe , that a buoyant rear section is essential for such a lure-type .
(which must not neccessarely be absolutely true !)
And a homemade wood lure can't be made as light as the commercial one of plastic that I have , at least not , if I want it to be sturdy and reliable !
But I am very sure , that somehow it must be possible , maybe making the front section of a more rigid , still buoyant kinda wood(so that the thin diving bill won't break) and the rear of balsawood , the lightest possible sort of wood(yet then it has to be wired through and carefully plated with epoxy to gain a hard surface) !
Just an idea in brief..............
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Good Luck , Dieter
