@ rofish
I can understand your concerns , but (to me) the glueing process is not as difficult and time-consuming , as it may seem to be
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It only takes about half-an-hour for four lures to be completed as shown on third picture(excluding screweyes) , since my glue starts to set quite fast , and you may already proceed with the next step , when its surface is still a little sticky , at this stage it won't flow anymore and stay in place !
For instance , when twisting in screweyes with that glue (I use pliers to hold them) , you won't do more than four at a time , rather more even three only .
For the fourth one the mixture would already have turned "jelly-like" , and you still need some time inbetween to wipe off excess around the eyes !
Sometimes I do fix the wire form in place with superglue before , but only if the slot and groove turned out to be too big , and the wire has too much loose play in it .
This way I avoid the toweye to possibly move into an improper position whilst the glue is curing .
But usually I don't like doing this too much , since the wire form never comes to sit snugly everywhere in the groove and into the bores at ends of groove , so this way described previously I can be sure , that the entire wire and groove are properly covered and filled with glue !
Superglue won't fill up every place as good as this glue shown , and if the wireform was fixed with superglue at first , the two-component glue would certainly not flow underneath it anymore to fill up every gap in the groove and bores !
Concerning airbubbles , these are not such a great problem , they even tend to occur more , when poking that wire piece or toothpick inside the slot for better pass of glue .
It's not like airbubbles sometimes occuring on clearcoats of lures , its rather more one single bigger bubble , that can be pinched open , when the glue is still fluid enough !
If the slot , where the eyelet passes through , is still big enough(most likely on larger lures) and has not been partly blocked with glue from the first step bonding the wire ends into the groove , the gravity of the fluid glue is often enough to fill up the entire slot , therefore I leave this "hump" on the tape , when masking the slot .
Poking in a toothpick only supports this flow .
And if not , I don't mind , its only a matter of minutes to apply a third mixture of glue to close the slot on the bellyside of lip .
But this way I am sure for myself , that I have created the most rigid bond possible , and since I make lures for my own pleasure and not to earn money with it , I really don't care about slower or faster proccessing that much , main thing is , that I am satisfied with what I am doing
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I don't quite understand , how you want to block the slots with pieces of wood , whilst applying glue
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The glue would also bind this wood ! My plastic tape doesn't !
This glue , that I use , also does not cure to a rock-hard condition , but it has great strength .
But I lately found on a lure , made about 8 years ago , that it would turn yellowish after a long time !
Glad , that you like this "egg box rack" , I've been utilizing it for many years now .
Since there are different ones around , make sure to look for a box , that has extra deep cuppings on the underside between the single egg's compartments , these also hold many lureshapes in an upright position(f. e. for glueing in diving bills or screw eyes)
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Greetz , Dieter
