I've been optimizing this technique on the past few baits that I have built this winter. This time I twisted the two ends of the wire together before locking them in with lead. Not that it was really necessary, but in case I fall off a cliff, I will use this bait to hook onto the edge and save myself...
The main wire is 0.062" with 0.051" double ended loops that drop off the main wire. The main tunnel is 1/8". The belly hooks eyes go through 1/4" tunnels that tie in to the main wire. The nose and tail get countersunk with the same 1/4" bit which allows me to draw the wire loops inside the lure. Five minute epoxy keeps everything sealed up and in the proper positoin.
The 0.062" wire is a little tricky to fish through the lead hole and is extremely difficult to cut off once it is twisted into a pair. Need to find a little easier way to do this, but overall I like the way this technique comes together.
Cable cutters will cut wire much easier than any other standard wire cutters or dykes. Cuts hard wire, soft wire no problem. A lot easier on your hands, and the tag end that gets snipped off doesn't go shooting off like a bullet-- it just drops into your hand. Cuts thick wire very easily. 1/8" stainless welding rod? Clip, done! I've been using a small pair of Shimano cable cutters for the past few years, and they make easy work of hard chores. Plus, the wire ends get cut square, with no sharp ends.
Get a pair, and then tell me if if they don't make all of your wire-cutting chores about 1000 times easier.
Drilling is done on a press. I draw a line on the bait that represents where I want to run the wire and use this to line it up perfectly in the vice. I start with a short 1/8" bit, then switch a 6" bit and run it in as far as it can go. I then flip the bait and realine and run through the other side. Usually you can get both sides to line up but the "lead lock" allows you to be a little off since you are fishign the wire up though the lead hole. The 1/4" holes are done with forstener bits. Last year I did some work with a hand drill and did not have good results so the drill press was my solution.
Sagatious,
I have a few cable cutters but could not get them to cut flush wiht the belly of the bait. Had to use side cutter and grab the other end with pliers and bend off at the nip. Wondering if I need to get a cutting disk for my dremel tool and saw off...
Yake Bait,
If I can understand you correctly, sometimes you may have problems with the drill bit going off a little bit when it goes through the lead hole. If so, why don't you make the hole for the lead after you drill the head to tail hole? You could make the hole for the lead shorter than needed, then drill the long hole, then continue to drill the lead hole as needed.
On the other hand, I do not understand why you need to have a wire going through the lead. If you epoxy the lead in place, it will stay there for eternity.
I have a few cable cutters but could not get them to cut flush wiht the belly of the bait. Had to use side cutter and grab the other end with pliers and bend off at the nip. Wondering if I need to get a cutting disk for my dremel tool and saw off...
OK, gotcha now.
If I were to use your thru-wiring technique, I think I'd line up the wires and cut them approx flush before twisting. Then grab both wire ends with needle-nose pliers or small locking pliers and twist. The twisting will, of course, draw the wires down below flush.
I applaud your innovation. Hope this helps, good luck!
You might be able get a safety wire pliers in the lead hole to get a grip and twist the wire a little easier. They are in heavy use in the aircraft world were you use .030 wire to prevent fasteners from getting loose. Hope this makes the process a little easier.
A fiber reinforced cutoff Dremel wheel can cut heavy wire very close to flush. It does take a little longer though, say 10 seconds versus 1/10 second for a snipper.
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