[Net Man]

Thank you for the imput so far. What are some other types of sealer that I could use. I have been using a vinyl sealer. I have seen where some are using an epoxy sealer too. What is best to use? Thanks

[BobP]

The water will eventually evaporate out and the bait will shrink. There is often no straightforward way to determine where the leak was because baits absorb water differently according to the grain pattern and the density of the wood, and internal pressure from expanding wood easily trashes the finish in various places. But water leaked in somewhere and you'll have to waterproof the bait completely to prevent it happening again.

[mark poulson]

Strip it and let it dry for a week in a warm place. Moisture can be wicked deep into wood, and not find it's way out until it's trapped and turns to vapor, which will lift the finish or cause the wood to swell and crack the finish.
You could also try dipping it in alcohol and then letting it dry. Repeat several times. Alcohol draws moisture out of wood.

[woodieb8]

what sealer are you using.

[Kribman]

I someone feared that they have perhaps gotten eater into a bait, could they dip it in alcohol on order to get any possible moisture out? I don't feel like going further with it unless I know it will be there for the long run...

[benton B]

Net Man, here is my method for sealing. I rub a coat of super glue on the bait and let dry. Sand and repeat that process, then apply a coat of devcon 2t thinned with denatured alcohol and let cure for 24 hrs. Soaking the bait in sealer might be what is causing your problem, you may need to wait several days before painting.

[mark poulson]

Benton's probably right. Soaking a piece of wood does let the sealer penetrate deeper, but it will take longer to get rid of the solvents/carrier.
Now my opinions are those of a hobbiest, not a professional. I don't sell my lures, just make them for me and my friends, so I don't have to worry about customer satisfaction. So take them for what their worth, not as gospel.
It seems to me that soaking a lure is a waste of time if you're going to clear coat it with epoxy. The epoxy is water proof, and, if it gets nicked while I'm fishing, I keep fishing anyway, and then hang the lure to dry and recoat or touchup the epoxy after I get home.

[BobP]

Netman, your original post said you sealed/primed/painted it. Didn't say you applied a durable clearcoat afterwards. I hope that was an ommision? Waterproof the bait with 50/50 epoxy/acetone first, then paint it, then use the same epoxy (not thinned with acetone) for a durable clearcoat. Your problems should be over.

[Net Man]

Yes I do clear my baits but I use an Automotive Clear Coat and normally put 3 to 4 coats on each bait. After working with plastic baits too I have noticed that the clear is very tough. So I am not sure that it is the clear coat causing the problem. But I am look at the new seal coat from CS to start using. Thank you for all the help.

[Skeeter]

Net Man,

Let me make this simple. You will have to strip and dry your bait. Once the bait is dry, then wipe on one or two coats of polyurethane and let it dry overnight. Once it is dry, lightly sand to smooth out. Then paint your bait and clearcoat. If something cracks, then more than likely your are missing something when clearcoating. Water won't hurt plastic if it gets to it. But it will wood. If you really want to make the bare wood completly sealed, then polyurethane the lure, dry, sand, and then clearcoat the lure with Devcon. Then shoot the paint straight onto the Devcon and clearcoat the lure. If you do it right....NO water will ever get to the wood. A stripped down Poes can take the extra weight of the Devcon. Original Tuffys are balsa....... balsa can handle with no problem. But it is extremely important that the wood is COMPLETELY dry, otherwise no matter what you seal or clearcoat with the lure will eventually crack.
Skeeter