This is what I use, I suppose it is an Iwata copy; it’s made in China and cost $36 NEW, on fleebay. I have had it for about 9 months now and had no trouble with it. I pulled it completely apart yesterday, for a good clean, and found it breaks right down to past the tip holder, so is the easiest brush I have ever had to do a spring clean on(I have 4 including a Iwata HP). It is a .2mm model ( thought it was .3) and I have sprayed a little thinner based lacquer (Propionate) through it, with no ill affects yet!!. I does not have a ceramic seal on the needle, so this may be a problem in the future.
All the air/paint adjustments are really handy, compared to a standard brush, and the needle stop, with a bit of ‘souping’ up is a great feature. The only drama I have had with it, is a bent needle, which straightened O.K, it was my fault. I tried to fit the Iwata tip in it when I had it apart, and found they even use the same threads, so all in all I’m impressed- !! Apparently parts are readily available.
For the price, compared to Iwata Hp Plus @ $294 here, I can buy about 9 of these. Saying all this, if I was doing commercial lures I would spend the money on the Iwata. pete
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Down HERE, we have to think outside the box.
Pete,
After I read your original post about that brush, I bought one, a Master from Airbrush City. Not $39, but a lot less than the same brush from Iwata.
Good investment. Makes detail painting sooooo much easier.
What is the purpose of the notches in the tip? Are they necessary, or can I substitute another tip for that one. The notches make cleanup a little harder.
Mark - To be honest, I don't know, BUT suspect it has something to do with paint pooling in the tip, other brushes I have appear to get a slight vacuum just inside the tip and blobs of paint can settle and dry here, so maybe these 'flutes'!! relieve that vacuum. Saying this, these still get some paint in there, but not as much as some. I think I tried an Iwata tip on it (same threads) or you can spray without it if you want- this is supposed to give even finer lines etc- BUT it also exposes the needle tip to being easily damaged. The thing that suprised me is, you can buy parts for them, which is a plus.
I keep calling it the 'Tip', but really it probably should be called a cowl, cap or hood- sorry if I have confused anyone. pete
__________________
Down HERE, we have to think outside the box.
I'll try removing the nozzle and see how it sprays. The only damage I'm worried about is to my hand when I try to back flush it with the exposed tip!
Of course, now that I've said that, I'll probably drop it and bend the needle. Murphy's law.
This is what I use, I suppose it is an Iwata copy; it’s made in China and cost $36 NEW, on fleebay. I have had it for about 9 months now and had no trouble with it. I pulled it completely apart yesterday, for a good clean, and found it breaks right down to past the tip holder, so is the easiest brush I have ever had to do a spring clean on(I have 4 including a Iwata HP). It is a .2mm model ( thought it was .3) and I have sprayed a little thinner based lacquer (Propionate) through it, with no ill affects yet!!. I does not have a ceramic seal on the needle, so this may be a problem in the future.
All the air/paint adjustments are really handy, compared to a standard brush, and the needle stop, with a bit of ‘souping’ up is a great feature. The only drama I have had with it, is a bent needle, which straightened O.K, it was my fault. I tried to fit the Iwata tip in it when I had it apart, and found they even use the same threads, so all in all I’m impressed- !! Apparently parts are readily available.
For the price, compared to Iwata Hp Plus @ $294 here, I can buy about 9 of these. Saying all this, if I was doing commercial lures I would spend the money on the Iwata. pete
Well after reading your post I got on ebay and purchased one of these. I did not get as good of a deal as you I had to bid for it and only got it for $37.95. I am looking forward to using it. I will let you guys know how it works out. I contacted the seller about how to get replacement parts and they have them on their website. Here it is if you need some parts for yours. Buyairbrushes.com - airbrushes, airbrush compressors, airbrush tanning, supplies and kits
Well after reading your post I got on ebay and purchased one of these. I did not get as good of a deal as you I had to bid for it and only got it for $37.95. I am looking forward to using it. I will let you guys know how it works out. I contacted the seller about how to get replacement parts and they have them on their website. Here it is if you need some parts for yours. Buyairbrushes.com - airbrushes, airbrush compressors, airbrush tanning, supplies and kits
Thanks for the info saved me a lot of $
What is this airbrush called? it is close to what im looking for.
Go on the site, and look for the PS900 and 950 guns. The both have MAC valves, which are the main selling point. Being able to adjust the airflow at the gun is priceless.
The 950 has a smaller paint cup. Both guns have .02 tips, which is really for finer work, so I doubt you'd need the bigger cup, and the smaller brush has a solid ring at the nozzle, not the notched ring, which is a little more trouble to seal when you're backwashing the brush. It's $10 more, but maybe it's worth it.
One of the side benefits of wearing disposable latex gloves when you paint (thank you Pete) is that the latex makes it easier to seal the notched nozzle when you backflush by just twisting it in your fingers. Otherwise, it can be a pain. But nothing like when I backflushed a Badger for the first time, and encountered the exposed needle. Ouch!
ok thanks! i think im going to order one, what else besides the hose and compressor do i need right away? and what is backwashing? im guessing it is to clean it but i am completly new to all of this. Any one have a good guide to starting airbrushing? mostly how to adjust the brush for painting and how to clean it
I'd order the hose when you order the brush so you can be sure it fits. You may (probably) need some hose adapters just depending on the fittings on your compressor and air hose. You also need a moisture trap and a pressure regulator on your compressor, depending on the compressor you use. A tool compressor is fine but outputs too much pressure for an airbrush. A regulator allows you to dial down the pressure. Backwashing - put some water or Windex in the brush and squeeze the trigger to begin clearing out the paint. With the airbrush full of cleaner, press your finger over the tip and shoot, forcing any paint left in the mix chamber back out through the cup. It cleans out the chamber better than just running cleaner through the brush. Note - if you have a notched tip like in the pic, backwashing may not be an option unless you remove the nozzle and needle first.
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