[mark poulson]

I think it's going to be fine. The tail section wiggles like crazy, and that's what you want. I've found that three piece lures kind of thrash from side to side, like a whip, and four piece swim like a snake.

[pizza]

great action - looking forward to the finished product!

[rofish]

DSV,
To me, the action of your lure is very good. I am sure that it will perform better in a lake or river.
I think Diemai is right. More weight could result in a better action. But first, you have to test your lure in a larger surface of water.
Indeed, when mentionind wear and tear of the bead chain, I was thinking of the wear of the wire against the bead. But you made me thinking, and I came up with an idea: what if one would use swivels as joints? Which could be extended into the body using twisted wire, same way you made those T shaped wires?
This is just an example. They have a large selection here, I was amazed to see the choices you have. I am happy if I can find 2 or 3 types of China made swivels. They even have chain beads, and taking into consideration their prices, I think these must be very strong. Turn on the pages to see them all:
Cabela's -- Search Simple Product

[rofish]

Forgot to say something.
DSV,
I recommend that before glueing everything with Devcon 2T, you dry the segments.
Diemai,
For through wire crankbaits, I use the toothpick method to stick together the 2 parts for the shaping and sanding process.
But I don't use screws to keep the 2 halves together after glueing. I just wrap the lure all around with non slippery string.

[diemai]

@ rofish

Only used the screws , because I chose local pinewood for those lures , it has a quite tough brown grain , so I needed a stronger force to press the halves together for the 1mm dia. wire harness to trace a sufficient indention , that I could extend with my "Dremel" for a snug fit of the two inner planes of wood .

On softer woods and with thinner wire off course screws would not be neccessary to achieve such indention , the harness would also be pressed into the wood just by tight wrapping or taping around the outside .

Greetz , Dieter

[DSV]

glued the head together with epoxy this morning. i will probably be able to glue the mid secion in about an hour and 15 minutes.

i have the weights how i like them. i really didnt care what kind of sink rate the lure had, my only requirement was that it swam, but i wanted a surface swimmer and i am glad that is what i got. sad thing is i dont have a rod capable of casting this lure i think i am going to buy a cheap 25 dollar rod that casts lures 1-4 oz from bass pro shops just to toss swimbaits every so often.

now i just gotta figure out what to do for paint!

i had developed an awesome method of painting with acrylic paints so that i could blend them and make them really neat looking, but it only works on bare wood, not polyurethane. so now im gonna have to experiment with a piece of test wood covered in polyurethane and see what i can come up with.

i attached a pic of a rainbow trout i did with acrylics using my other method which only works on bare wood.

[diemai]

@ DSV

Hopefully you'd find a way to put on that paint style onto your new swimbait , that trout pattern looks cool , very nice brush job!

Maybe you'd need some sort of primer , that adheres to the polyurethane and acrylic paint alike .
I haven't worked with that sealer before , so I can't give you any advice !

So it seems , that your lure turned out for you exactly the way , that you've planned , that is great !

I wish , such would also happen to me frequently , but since I always think of new , different and sometimes little weird designs , I sometimes have to face disappointment!


Greetz , Dieter

[DSV]

here is what i came up with. i know its sloppy because i was experimenting with colors. im gonna use this piantjob but it will be much neater when its on the lure:

[diemai]

@ DSV

Sorry , but does that mean , that it would work on the polyurethane , or you just tried your coloration only ?

Dieter

[mark poulson]

I agree. The trout scheme looks great.
One thing I'd recommend.
I use Krylon rattle can white primer (thanks Nathan) over my waterproofing, after I've scuff sanded the waterproofing, and my water based paint sticks to that fine. A white undercoater also enhances the colors of the paint that goes over it, so they cover better with less paint, and the colors are more true.