Mark is right routers are a very dangerous tool, saftey is #1 when useing them. In my opinion the router is the most dangerous tool in the lure building shop. Small pieces of wood , and your fingers, around the high speed bits takes some serious saftey precautions. The blades are not the only thing dangerous things about a router, bait can be slung across the room at high speeds if not held in place properly. Smaller the bait the more dangerous it is. So always have respect for this and all tools in your shop.
Like BJBaron, I have used the tube with garnet glued in, this is really good for finishing off curves, I have also been using this (below) for roughing down lures, for years. This is the same as the tube idea, but has a motor and really eats into Kauri Pine, balsa, and basswood - not so good on Radiata pine or Red cedar, because of the sap and raised grains (tends to vibrate/ bounce) there is a full post on it somewhere in here. Use an evaporative cooler motor - (See also Tute "Micro Through Wire Cons" for a few more pictures and discription of motor).pete
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Down HERE, we have to think outside the box.
Last edited by hazmail; July 28th, 2008 at 08:21 PM.
Reason: Add text
Hazmail you are the master. I would have never thought of that one. I always like buiding tools and jigs in the shop and I welcome all tips for making life a little easier.
I saw your sanding wheel in some previous posts and knew that was the tool I needed to have. I tried to get someone to turn a wheel on a lathe for me but they were not as willing as I had hoped they might be. What is the wheel itself made from or is it simply something you had lying around and attached to the motor. I know if I can get my hands on a tool like that I could whp out the sanding real quick.
Like BJBaron, I have used the tube with garnet glued in, this is really good for finishing off curves, I have also been using this (below) for roughing down lures, for years. This is the same as the tube idea, but has a motor and really eats into Kauri Pine, balsa, and basswood - not so good on Radiata pine or Red cedar, because of the sap and raised grains (tends to vibrate/ bounce) there is a full post on it somewhere in here. Use an evaporative cooler motor - (See also Tute "Micro Through Wire Cons" for a few more pictures and discription of motor).pete
From one "Hammer Mechanic, to another, I am humbled! Way to go!
__________________ Hammer Mechanic, 1st Class.
"Too soon old, Too late smart.".
When I was at Gene's ("Lincoyas") place in May, he knocked one out on his lathe in 5 mins (he's got all the tools), BUT, I don't have one, so I just cut a circle out of a piece of "Custom wood" or "Craft Wood" (not sure what you guys call it) 20mm thick, screwed it onto the pulleys (which is only a 'boss' for the shaft size), and made a tool rest and a cutting tool with 20mm radius from an old wood rasp - then started the motor up and turned the 20mm half circle (groove), which when finished, also balances the wheel/pulley. If you don't have wood thick enough, just glue 2 pieces of 10mm-12mm togeather. pete
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Down HERE, we have to think outside the box.
Absolutely cool idea , I'm gonna go to the scrabyard of my work more frequently now during my breaktimes .
Sooner or later I'm gonna find something suitable there , I'm thinking about one of approx. 5" dia. , 1" width , turned down from aluminium .
For the chuck of my lathe-motor it should have a shaft attached(a bolt and two nuts counterscrewed)of about 1 1/2" potruding and 1/2" dia . !
This bolt shaft would run exactly centered , when mounting it first to the blank wheel and then fixing it into the chuck of a metal lathe at my work and have the shape of the wheel milled down , no problem about that !
But which type of glue exactly to use to apply the sandpaper segments and how to get them off again , when worn out ?
Anyway , hazmail , thanks a lot for the input , great idea !
Greetz , diemai
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"Each Lure Will Catch On Its Day" (Charlie Bettell)
Daemai- For attachment, I use contact glue - make sure you coat both surfaces and let dry before sticking. To get it off, just dab some Mineral Turpentine (turps) on to the surface of the garnet paper, it will soak through and then it's just a matter of peeling it off. pete
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Down HERE, we have to think outside the box.
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