Thanks for the help guys, I know it takes a lot of practice. I was hoping to do detailed jobs on baits. What specific kind of airbrush would be good for that? Also, any recommended paints for it? One I know of that I heard is good is the House Of Kolor paints. Thanks again.
I'm not familiar with House of Kolor paints, so I'll talk about brushes that work with Createx, Wildlife, and Apple Barrel paints, which I have used.
I have an Iwata dual action C brush, which has an air flow control built into the trigger, and a separate paint flow control at the rear.
It's a good all around brush, but it was expensive.
I also have a Master airbrush with a MAC valve (micro air control) and a smaller tip, which I use for detail work.
The smaller tip lets me make smaller lines, and the MAC valve gives me the ability to do finer work at lower air pressure, but it has it's limitations. It doesn't spray pearls or thicker paints like opaques very well. I have to thin them with Windex if I want to use them with this gun.
Practice using stencils for details, and, if you're only going to buy one airbrush, get one with a .35 or larger tip, so you can spray all kinds of paints.
The Iwata revolution is a good all around affordable air brush that can do just about anything, once you've learned how to airbrush. And there are a lot of Iwata knockoffs, like Master, that work and are cheaper in price.
If you put an in-line air valve after your pressure regulator/water separator, you can adjust the air down on most airbrushes for fine detail work. Just be sure to thin the paint so it will still spray at low pressure.
And you're right. Practice. Nothing teaches like doing.
Last edited by mark poulson; August 3rd, 2008 at 10:41 PM.
Looks like the perfect brush to start with, and one that will do everything you'll probably ever want to do.
It has a .3 tip to spray thicker paints without too much thinning, MAC valve for easy adjustment, Teflon seals so you can spray lacquers and automotive paints, and a good cup size so you don't spill your paint (too often).
Just take your time reassembling it the first few times you clean it. The needles are very easy to bend (that's true on any brush), and the threads can be rough when they're new. So go slow.
And have fun.
A good rule of thumb is to thin your paint with Windex until it's as runny as milk, or a little more so.
With that .3 tip, you can probably spray pearls and opaques straight, but it is easier to thin them a little, and do a couple of thin coats, instead of one thicker coat which may not dry as fast or completely. Two thin coats is really better than one thick one anyway.
Use a hair dryer to dry each coat, and clean the brush with Windex between colors, and you should be good to go.
And it has Teflon seals, so, if you do clog it up, you can run some acetone (my best friend) through it, or even soak the tip in acetone for a little, and then clean it all up.
Other than bending the needle, which usually happens when the brush is dropped without the tip on it, or by jamming it back in crooked when you're reassembling it, or stripping the threads when you go too fast in reassembly, having the tip and needle clog with paint is the most serious problem you'll encounter, and it's totally fixable by cleaning.
I have a Master with the .2 tip, and I did find that the needle had a slight bur on the tip, which I removed with some 600 wet and dry sand paper, very gently.
So good luck, and have at it!
Last edited by mark poulson; August 4th, 2008 at 07:19 PM.
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