What's wrong with Denatured alcohol (besides being toxic). I use that sometimes and have also used acetone. I used D2T for a long time without thinning, but the bigger the baits got I just had to thin to get the stuff not to get hard on me, no matter how fast I went. You can heat a little to bring it back to life but I think that just speeds up the curing process. I think it really depends on your location, here in Fl is like 100 degrees with 100% humidity. The D2T sets up super quick. Hence my need to thin a little.
Alcohol contains oxygen that will rob some epoxy's reaction and give you an undercured film. And it absorbs moisture, resulting in the same. In most epoxy sytems, it takes too much to get the viscosity you need. If you're using 100% solid epoxy and it takes more than 10% reduction to get the brushability, you're using the wrong reducer. Or wrong epoxy
Many of us are hobbiests with limited access (maybe not a bad thing) to special solvents and little if any knowledge about coatings chemistry. I apprecaite hearing comments from an expert. I've used acetone, virgin lacquer thinner, non-virgin LT and denatured alcohol. DA has worked best. Very thin, it makes a very good waterproofer. In the heat of summer when straight epoxy becomes unbrushable in about 5 mins, a little DA extends the work time but cures about as fast as unthinned epoxy. I haven't noticed any clouding.
What shelf at Home Depot do they store the MIBK/Tolulene?
ACO hardware has both around here. And any auto refinish supplier carries them. Not raggin ya, just trying to help.
The biggest mistake I see here is patience! If you have a turner, you need an epoxy that takes about 3 hours to cure. 30 minute epoxy is too much of a pain in the rear. Use a 100% solid, slow cure epoxy, with one coat, and you'll be amazed at how easy it can be.
OOOO no here it comes!!!!! No not that! Please any thing but that!
Downriver Tackle what do you think the best brand epoxy or urathane for the application? I see that I should use slow cure (3 hours).
Thanks for the info Downriver. I really hate to get another epoxy post going here but I always appreciate the knowledge of those who have already tinkered around with this stuff. Saves us alot of time and money.
This is good info and I really want to know what would be a good place for me to start finding another good clear coat. I use 2-ton now and like it but I would like a longer cure at times. Maybe to coat 10 lures at a time. I'm only good enough to get 4 or 5 in. I live high in the mountains (5700 ft above sea level)and its dry, moisture in the air is not a problem. Well unless you want it there. I guess Live in the mountain desert. ANYWAYS looking for guidance.
I have played with thinning epoxy in the past. At the end of the day I say leave well alone, as far as I can see there is no epoxy made that says on the package 'thin with'. If D2T is too heavy try Etex which is a lighter epoxy that way you are safe in the knowledge you are not compromising the integrity of the product in any way. If you thin you cannot expect the product to behave in an identical way to unthinned even if the effects are unseen. Kelly, Etex I believe would meet with your requirements.
__________________
philB
"You try your best it's just that your best sometimes isn't good enough"
Last edited by philB; August 7th, 2008 at 02:36 AM.
OOOO no here it comes!!!!! No not that! Please any thing but that!
Downriver Tackle what do you think the best brand epoxy or urathane for the application? I see that I should use slow cure (3 hours).
Available off the shelf?......................Flexcoat
Last edited by Downriver Tackle; August 7th, 2008 at 07:06 AM.
Thanks philb I see Etex posted a lot. Might have to try it. Downriver on the flex coat I thought that yellowed over time? Are you talking about the rod finish or is there another mix to use?
Thanks philb I see Etex posted a lot. Might have to try it. Downriver on the flex coat I thought that yellowed over time? Are you talking about the rod finish or is there another mix to use?
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