There is another awesome wood to wood glue called Titebond......I make wainscoating at work and we glue all of our wood panels together with it. I've personally hit quite a few panels on the edge of a table to see where it breaks and its never broke in the seam where its glued..this stuff is awesome....
Thanks for the comments guys. As for the Titebond, I have heard that the Titebond III is a waterproof version and have thought of trying it, but was wondering what type of glue it is and if it tacks up fast so that the pieces can be handled. As I said before, it would be a pain (not impossible) to clamp the pieces so a fast setting glue would be better. Thanks again.
Titebond & Titebond II are interior grade, Titebond III is exterior grade (should have a "duck") on the bottle.
They are all typical to standard wood glue.
My experience has it tacking in about 20 minutes & clamps removed after 2 hours, let setup overnight, but I think the bottle says, cures in 4 hours.
As far , as I am concerned , any wood parts bonded with special wood glue have to be clamped , whilst glue is curing .
Surely I don't know about your design and construction , but if it is headache to set carpenters ,-or spring loaded clamps , maybe you could use some sort of wedges ?
There is another special glue over here called "UHU-hart" , it is especially made for building model planes , also model boats of wood .
It is clear , sets within 15 min(full strength after 24 hrs) , but I don't think , that I would trust it for lures without any mechanical fitting , unless these are made of balsa(soaks very well into the pores of balsa , you can't break that bond , the wood would crack up) .
good luck , diemai
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I'm sure I can figure out a way to clamp but it seems like it would be difficult. So far I have used Devcon 5min. since it sets fast. I can use hand pressure to "clamp" the pieces long enough for that stuff to set up. Can anyone give me any reason why any of the other glues previously mentioned would be stronger than the Devcon? If not, I will probably stick with it. Might even try some of the faster setting stuff. I just figured that there might be some glues out there that were made especially for wood that might be better. Thanks again.
This is really nothing new, but few people are doing it. The only major manufacture that uses this type of hinge is 3:16 which I think are the finest hard baits made...so I had to try it. These are the hinges that I mentioned in my post about wood to wood glues. The bass bait still needs some finish. I am waiting for some Dick Nite to spray on it 'cause I didn't want to build in much clearance for appearance reasons. The bluegill bait is coated in Etex so I had to build it with a little sloppier tolarances in the hinges.
Very interesting pics of your well done swimbaits .
By those pics I can even figure out about the working operations neccessary .
Truly quite an uncommon method on homemade baits , but also now I understand , why you requested a dead safe kinda glue and why clamping would have been headache !
I once have to try this method as well(when I would have time , may be when I'm gonna be retired in 20 years ???) , but since I have a hobby routing machine in my workshop , I'd cut those hinges out of the full material , but I am not sure , which way would be easier ?
Great job and idea !
diemai
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"Each Lure Will Catch On Its Day" (Charlie Bettell)
Borderbasser - . these are exceptional baits. I have been using screw eyes, twisted wire hinges since I started building (or trying to) swimbaits a year ago. You have raised the bar as far as hinges go and I now feel compelled to try to at least come close. Thanks for the pics. These are great looking baits, love the paint as well as hinges.
Have a question for you but it is off topic. Will send pm.
David
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