[mark poulson]

Originally Posted by captsully18

Hey Mark, what if you joined the two pieces with twisted wires? Drill holes in the dowel, epoxy in two twisted sst wires, when set drill matching holes in the body section and glue dowel in? Sounds like it would work to me, but what do I know?

David

I don't see why it wouldn't. Twist wires hold for hinges and hook hangers, so they should work for this, too.
All we're trying to get is a "steel reinforced" glue joint, so we get the benefits of both the rigid glue and the flexible sst wire.
Kind of like steel reinforced concrete, where the concrete is strong in compression, and the steel is strong in tension, and the two work together to make a material that has both characteristics.
Another thing that might work is cutting vertical grooves in the curved face of the lure body before the hinge is glued in, so there is some kind of a mechanical connection into the body of the lure.
But I think some kind of sst wired reinforcing is important.
The idea of cutting a small groove around the hinge cylinder, and then looping sst wire around in the groove, twisting the tag ends and cutting them off with enough left for good penetration into the lure body "dowel holes" is probably the best idea so far, since it answers all the concerns in the most simple way, as long as it's not too hard to hide the wire for cosmetics. Although that might not be an issue if it's done neatly. You could probably use a tubing cutter to score the cylinder deeply enough to make the wire flush.

[diemai]

@ mark poulson

Hi , Mark , a mechanical bond in addition of the glue bond would certainly enhance stability of the hinges , that's for sure .

I think , just drilling one(or even two) holes centered horizontally through the round dowel portions and into the curved face would be the easiest way to do .

When glueing all together , a (or two) round pin of wood is placed through this hole , potruding a little and thoroughly bonded with glue as well(a snug dry fit is essential) .

The small vertical hinge pin bore could lead trough this wood pin as well , shouldn't be a problem , since everything is glued well .

The wood pin portion potruding over the round dowels circumference can be easily sanded flush after curing for a neat look and to insure proper function of hinge .

I guess , such a wood pin and glue bond is very often used on furniture parts .

greetz , Dieter

[mark poulson]

Dieter,
You made me laugh at myself. I'm a carpenter, I worked with dowels at lot years ago, I have a couple of doweling jigs in my garage and a bag full of wood dowels, and I never thought of using wood dowels for this, which would make perfect sense.
Talk about, "Can't see the forest for the trees".
Wood dowel glued into wood makes the most sense of all!
That joint would probably outlast the fisherman.

[borderbasser]

Deimai, I think you may be on to something. I have thought about how in the world I could attach a "post" to the hinge and drill a corresponding hole for it to fit in to the body but for some reason all I have considered was metal. Their is no reason why it can't be done with a small dowel instead. Just drill a hole in the hinge for the dowel to be glued in...if it covers the hinge pin hole, just redrill the hole and bore through the dowel...simple. The only problem I can see with this, would be for the smaller hinges on the tail...there is just not much room. I think I am going to have do a little more creative thinking on this. Thanks again.

TJ

[borderbasser]

Mark exactly my thoughts. We must have been typing at the same time.

TJ

[mark poulson]

bb,
The beauty of using wood dowel pins is that you can glue the hinge sections in place, and then drill right through the hinge cylinder into the lure, so everything lines up perfectly. Just be sure to relieve the dowel pin enough, either by sanding it flat on several faces, or sanding it slightly smaller where it enters the lure body, so you don't have it so tight that it won't go in, and won't make a glue starved joint. Myself, I'd sand three flats on the dowel, make the hole a little sloppy, and then rotate the dowel in the hole after I'd put it in. You have to apply glue to both the dowel and in the hole, so there is no dry area, and the dowel should force the excess glue back out along the flats you've sanded onto the length of the dowels. If you don't have some kind of a relief or play, like the grooves in store bought dowels, the pressure of the trapped glue, hydraulic pressure, will split the lure body, sure as shootin', or it will just freeze part way in and you'll have to drill it out and start all over.

[diemai]

@ mark poulson

Hi , Mark , we have the same term about "forest and trees" in German language as well .

Sometimes you're hooked up onto something so much , that you won't consider about different , maybe easier solutions , that's normal .

Between 79' and '82 I have gone through an apprenticeship as a toolmaker , after I have worked for 10 years on special grinding machines to furnish single assembly parts(did a lot for the German "Lufthansa" , "Boeing" aircraft engine maintainance devices , for example) , so we always had to think of different solutions to furnish those parts to attain requested accuracy .

Now I am precision grinding hobs , which is rather more a series production with repeative working processes , but since our customers request new designs and shapes from time to time , I frequently have to think about solutions as well how to fix those into my machines there for working on them .

@ Borderbasser

I guess , even if having only small space at the rear section , a very thin wood dowel pin would do , it could only be a thin(approx. 3 mm)barbecue stick of bamboo(to poke pieces of meat and onions on ) , you might even drill the hinge pin bore through it , the glue would still bond it almost halfway into the round hinge dowel .
In every case you would attain more "glueing" surface , thus more stability .

Greetz , Dieter

[hazmail]

Borderbasser - I just got onto this thread, very fine work on those lures/hinges, great lateral thinking with the dowel and pin. pete

[KcDano]

How would you prevent the dowel from wearing the finish down and swelling. Which would bind the rotation.

[Spike-A-Pike]

Maybe, the perfect dowel would be a synthetic dowel; not wood. Dowel pins made from high-strength synthetic materials such as PVC, Nylon, Extren & phenolics are on the market and most if not all can be worked with wood tools.