wood to wood glue? - Page 5

borderbasser · #41 (**permalink**) August 23rd, 2008

On the bluegill bait, I had to sand the hinges down some to allow clearance for the epoxy finish. The bass bait, I didn't allow for much clearance, but I am going to try to spary Dick Nite's finish since it is so thin. I figure I will spray 1-2 coats on the hinges and try to build the finish up on the rest of the bait. Thanks for the comments guys.

TJ

diemai · #42 (**permalink**) August 23rd, 2008

@ KcDano

Don't think , that there would be much wear occuring with clearcoat rubbing on clearcoat , only when clearcoat is rubbing on uneven or rough-surfaced metal(provided , that it is chosen rigid and hard enough)

.

Have some simple sreweye-jointed homemade cranks , designed in a way , so that their sections would constantly hit one another on retrieve to generate noise , no signs of wear to be seen on them , though in use already for several seasons

.

Greetz , Dieter

borderbasser · #43 (**permalink**) August 23rd, 2008

What I would really like to do is make a swimbait that I'm 100% satisfied with and make a mold of it. I just don't know how strong it would be at the hinges if using foam. I guess it can be made out of Alumalite (sp?), but I am not familiar with that stuff either. This would be opening up a whole new can of worms for me since I have never experimented with molds for hard baits. The main reason I haven't is because I don't sell my baits and it seems like it would be a lot of work for personal use. Anyway, what do you guys think about the hinge strength of these materials?

TJ

TJ

jerkbait_jimmy · #44 (**permalink**) August 24th, 2008

Try contact cement. It's whats used to glue formica countertops to their wood base.

mark poulson · #45 (**permalink**) August 25th, 2008

Solvent based contact cement can fail in sunlight/heat. Be sure it's really cured out before you proceed.

captsully18 · #46 (**permalink**) August 25th, 2008

The Alumilite should do fine. Be sure to mix exactly as recommended. I hope to have a definite answer shortly as I am still working on building a bait that I am completely satisfied with before making the mold. Not sure how long this will be, but it should be in the next week, I hope.

David

philB · #47 (**permalink**) August 30th, 2008

Thought it would be of benifit as it was mentioned earlier by Jerry (no good for hinges) to post a pick of the Foaming Polyurethane wood adhesive. This is the stuff you spray with water. Good for filling gaps if through wiring. You can see the hook hanger ring in this picture.

Spread real thin on one surface, mist spray one surface, clamp, wait 5 mins and unclamp. The excess can be removed easily and the joint sanded in around 20 to 30 mins.

hazmail · #48 (**permalink**) August 30th, 2008

Looks like frogs eggs Phil ! ! Maybe we could us this stuff as a bait?? Good glue too. pete

jamie · #49 (**permalink**) August 30th, 2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by philB

Thought it would be of benifit as it was mentioned earlier by Jerry (no good for hinges) to post a pick of the Foaming Polyurethane wood adhesive. This is the stuff you spray with water. Good for filling gaps if through wiring. You can see the hook hanger ring in this picture.

Spread real thin on one surface, mist spray one surface, clamp, wait 5 mins and unclamp. The excess can be removed easily and the joint sanded in around 20 to 30 mins.

Philb Ive never used this type of glue for baits , does this glue have any reaction with e-tex lite when clearing? This is on the same line of glue as gorilla glue right? Like to try something new but needsome info.

philB · #50 (**permalink**) August 31st, 2008

Hi Jamie

I cannot answer your question yet as I have not coated any of the baits I have made so far with this type of adhesive. There should not be a problem though for me as all I am using the adhesive for is jointing woods together, I am then sealing them prior to painting and ultimately coating with Etex, in theory the glue should not come into contact with the finish coat. I have started using this type of adhesive as I have had trouble in the past with air pockets within the bait body after through wiring.

What I can tell you though is the adhesive is very quick and extremely strong also it is waterproof. I have tried to part two halves and simply cannot. The glue is stronger than the wood.

I do not consider an adhesive being waterproof is of any real benefit because if a bait suffers from water ingression then it it not a worthy construction and will fail as a usable lure, at the end of the day a lure has to be waterproof for longevity this is why so much time is spent on sealing and coating.

I will of course post on the board any problems or related info as it occurs.